On the Panoramic Path through Fira

A panoramic path leads from the centre of Fira along the crater rim of Santorini’s caldera up to Firostefani. From there, you can extend the path further uphill to the highest point in Imerovigli. In particular, the detour down to the headland with Skaros Rock would already be a worthwhile (day) destination. The further 8 kilometres of path to Oia are then more of a strenuous hike than a leisurely stroll.

The scenic square in front of the Metropolitan Church in the centre of Fira, at the beginning of the pedestrian zone, was my starting point. In the morning, there was already a lot of activity. Suppliers for restaurants and shops unloaded goods from delivery vehicles onto the sack trucks of the men already waiting there, who then busily shuttled through the alleys. The first early tour groups from the hotels or the cruise ship anchored offshore were also already passing by.

Just a few minutes’ walk later, the first decision arose: did I want to make a detour down the steep staircase to the old port? At the port, feeder boats for the anchored passenger ships arrive, as do excursion boats for tours to Nea Kameni and through the caldera. However, there are almost 600 steps, and the winding path was covered with the droppings of the mules that were still transporting guests on their backs. I decided to descend on foot and return comfortably by cable car.

Only the construction of the cable car enabled the rapid onward transport of the increasing number of cruise tourists and was certainly to be welcomed for animal welfare reasons too. Not everyone wants or can cover the strenuous path on foot or on the back of an animal.

Back on the upper edge of the cliff, immediately behind the “mountain” station, I visited the impressive Cathedral, dedicated to St. John the Baptist. The sacred architecture of the churches with their colourful domes and sometimes filigree bell towers is typical of Santorini or the Cyclades. The next colourful church buildings, the Dominican Convent and the Agios Stylianos Chapel, followed just a few metres further along the panoramic path – there would be many more throughout the day.

The fantastic view of the sea and the islands is often complemented by interesting details and motifs directly along the path. There was the Volkan Cinema, a bar with an open-air cinema, stylish architecture and pretty decorative elements, as well as lushly blooming bougainvillea again and again.

I took my time for observations and details, occasionally lingering on one of the viewing terraces or wandering through the often confusing stairways on the steep slope to discover other perspectives. It was already the off-season, so many shops, hotels, and holiday apartments were tidied up and closed for winter, but there was already a lot of construction activity.

In Imerovigli, I descended to Skaros Rock and reached the Holy Church of Panagia Theoskepasti, the turning point of my excursion. The church is somewhat set forward on a headland and offers a wide panorama over the cliff and the entire island group.

No matter where on the panoramic path you are at sunset, it always remains an impressive spectacle with the ensemble of white villages on the edge of the cliff, the riot of colours in the sky, the sea, and the volcanic rock.

On the way back in the twilight after sunset, I wandered through the labyrinth of stairs and alleys, coloured by the pastel-hued gloom, which occasionally ended in dead ends in front of house entrances. In the previously golden light of the sunset or the now increasingly dominant artificial lighting, the houses appear like a crown on the wide crater rim.

Thus, a beautiful day trip full of unique impressions ended back in Fira. For a comfortable evening conclusion, including a view, one of the now still open restaurants or bars was an option, even if many of them closed quite early in autumn.

Another extraordinary experience was a double power cut in Firostefani in the evening. First, the power went out for 15 minutes while we were still at the hotel, then later for half an hour during dinner at the restaurant. The locals reacted calmly each time. In our restaurant’s kitchen, work continued with headlamps and gas, and the host pragmatically provided all tables with candles, creating a cosy atmosphere. Jámas!