The Colourful Churches of Santorini

The churches of Santorini largely follow the typical forms of Orthodox churches: oriented to the east, with a cross-shaped nave and a dome, known as a cross-in-square church. It usually consists of a square room with columns or pillars in the centre, four barrel vaults arranged in the shape of a Greek cross, and a dome above in the middle. Nevertheless, an incomparable variety with individual colours and shapes has developed from these basic structures.

The altar area is separated in the classical form from the nave, where the congregation gathers. This is visually achieved by a partition wall covered with images, the iconostasis. This separation can be understood as a return to pre-Christian Greek tradition. For Orthodox theology, concealing the Holy of Holies signifies that God is unreachable without mediation through Christ. Despite this spatial division, the liturgy spoken and sung behind the partition wall can be well understood acoustically in the congregational area. I also remembered this from the Catholic liturgy of my childhood, which was largely conducted with the priest facing away from the congregation (and you only saw the priest’s back).

Often, an open or closed narthex, the width of the church building, precedes the nave. Candles, icons, and ecclesiastical items are often sold in this entrance area. However, it’s not as commercial as in that Bible story where Jesus drove the merchants and money changers out of the Jerusalem temple.

On the island of Santorini, Orthodox and Byzantine architectural styles blended with elements of Cycladic architecture: the simple, whitewashed, cubic houses, often with contrasting blue, for example, on the domes. The local volcanic rocks and steep coast meant that caves could be easily dug there. Many such caves were then supplemented with buildings, with the round ceiling shape being transferred to the freestanding buildings. Therefore, the barrel vault represents the traditional roof shape on Santorini.

The buildings usually have a very geometric form with domes, originally without decorative ornaments. They were built and extended as needed according to the terrain structure. This explains the many narrow and winding alleys, balconies, and stairs on the caldera’s steep coast.

Another special feature can be found in the town centre of Fira. During the Venetian occupation of the island in the 19th century, Catholics founded a settlement and built the Cathedral of Ieros Naos Agiou Ioannou tou Baptistou in 1823, which is why the district is also called the “Catholic Quarter”. The cathedral shows strong elements in the style of Western Mediterranean churches, as does the adjacent Dominican convent.

The bell towers on Santorini are known for their unique architecture, which harmoniously integrates with the characteristic aesthetic of the Cycladic islands. They create a picturesque contrast to the deep blue Aegean Sea and the clear sky.

The geometric shapes create a distinctive and photogenic appearance. The colours are also often changed, as I could see from many pictures taken at different times.

These architectural features are not only aesthetically pleasing but also reflect the island’s cultural and religious history. The harmonious integration of form and colour in the bell towers significantly contributes to Santorini’s unique charm and identity.

In Oia, I found a church decorated with colourful pennants. It turned out this was for the church festival of Archangels Michael and Gabriel.

The carillons in many churches and chapels are still rung by hand, as indicated by the hanging ropes.

On Santorini, many churches and chapels are located in unusual or prominent places, harmoniously embedded in the impressive landscape, for example, on mountain peaks or along the coasts. They are worthwhile destinations for hikes, such as at the Skaros Rock near Imerovigli.