In the Dalmatian archipelago – Vela Luka on Korčula

I stand curiously on the upper deck of the ferry from Split and take in the first impressions as we enter the bay of Vela Luka. While a typical Croatian rocky coastline with beautiful swimming coves passes by, the harbour draws closer. The town surrounds the entire rear area of the bay. Above the long harbour promenade, the houses stretch up the slopes of the surrounding hills. In the days of ancient Greece, the island was still lushly covered with dark forests, which is why it was called Korkyra Melaina, Black Island. The name Korčula was later derived from this. The name remained, and fortunately (dark) forests are present once again. Long, green hill ranges with macchia and pine forests, fertile valleys with olive groves, vines and fruit orchards define the island’s landscape.

With just over 4,000 inhabitants, Vela Luka is the second largest town on the island of Korčula. Nevertheless, the surrounding western part of the island appears quieter than the region around the eponymous and famous medieval town of Korčula in the east. Paths and small lanes criss-cross the forests or follow the coastline. They invite you to go on hikes or bike tours and offer a change of pace from activities in and on the water. In the hamlet of Potirna, we found a small and quiet campsite in the afternoon as a base for the next few days.

I used the afternoon for a first short hike to the small chapel of St. George (Sv. Jure), which perches on a nearby hill. From there, you have a wonderful overview of the south coast and its bays, the offshore uninhabited islets and across to the island of Lastovo. I rested in the shade on the stone bench in front of the chapel entrance and let the Mediterranean panorama sink in. Refreshed again, I followed the path southwards down to the bay of Tri Luke, around which a few holiday homes are built. From there, the path leads along the coast and up the short, steep stretch of road back to Potirna.

On the edge of Vela Luka rises the hill of Hum (376 m). This promises a great view. On the summit of Hum also stand the ruins of an old fortress from the 19th century. A man was sleeping in the semi-dilapidated tower, probably a fire watchman (I’ve experienced something similar in Sardinia). The plan was to spend the sunrise up there. The climb is short, about an hour. Therefore, the alarm was set for an early ascent.

After the previous eventful day, however, I had such a restful and deep sleep that I completely missed the alarm. Fortunately, I woke up on my own not too late, just as the first glow of dawn set in. So I got dressed quickly and, with my headlamp on, headed up at a sportier pace via forest tracks and a well-marked path through light pine forest. The last part of the route was on the narrow track leading up from Vela Luka.

In the east, the horizon was already glowing orange. Shortly before sunrise, I reach the summit just in time, but suddenly find myself standing on the rocky cliffs in a strong, gusty wind. Even with a tripod, taking photos became a challenge. The sun now rose over the Biokovo mountain range and the coast of the Makarska Riviera on the Croatian mainland; in front of it, in the haze, lay the mountain and hill ranges of the islands of Hvar and the Pelješac peninsula, prominently visible through its highest peak, Sv. Ilija (961 m). Light mist still lingered in the valleys of Korčula, while the contours of the landscape were vividly sculpted by the now low-angled sunlight.

More pictures in the Croatia gallery.