Céret, the inconspicuous beauty

On our journey through the artistic triangle in Catalonia, we had already gained many impressions along the coast of the Côte Vermeille and the Cap de Creus with the towns of Collioure and Cadaqués. Now the path led us away from the sea into the hinterland to the foothills of the Pyrenees. There, not far from the dominant mountain massif of the Pic de Canigou, lies the small French town of Céret in the fertile Tech valley, which is only at first glance inconspicuous (the third location of our trip starting with “C”). However, Céret is a unique place with a special atmosphere and it captured our hearts. There are many reasons for this.

Céret has a mild microclimate and fertile soils. Cherry orchards full of ripe fruit, pastures, flowering meadows and wooded hills surrounded the town during our stay, which reminded me very much of my home in the Rhine plain and the Northern Black Forest. To the north-west, the valley leads into the mountains of the Pyrenees, while to the south, you can taste the salty air of the coast. On arrival, we found a lovely campsite outside the town with a relaxed atmosphere in the midst of cherry and mulberry trees, hay meadows and cow pastures. Free choice of pitch and registration when the hosts are present in the afternoon, the town centre within easy reach on foot or by bike—an ideal place to relax.

On our first walk into the town centre, we first crossed the more modern outskirts. There, everyday bustle prevails at schools and on the sports fields. Only a few minutes later, we are standing in the old town with a mixture of wide avenues and narrow alleys, medieval buildings and impressive townhouses with typical Mediterranean facades: stucco, floor-to-ceiling windows and small balconies with cast-iron railings.

The centre is formed by the “Place des 9 jets” under tall plane trees and the eponymous octagonal fountain from the 14th century, fed by nine gargoyles. An unexpected silence reigned here, something was missing—the splashing of the fountain! Due to a lack of water, caused by the drought period that has now lasted several years with dry summers and a lack of precipitation in winter, public fountains throughout the town are currently decommissioned. The phenomenon of “La sécheresse” (drought) accompanied us throughout the entire journey and made the effects of climate change a concrete reality.

A ring of wide boulevards with shops, restaurants and cafes leads around the core of the old town. The tall, shade-providing plane trees and the (dry) water channels in the streets again provide a unique flair here.

The light and the colours, the people and the landscape have attracted numerous artists since the beginning of the 20th century—sculptors, painters, composers—on their travels to the Mediterranean coast. Therefore, while it is not unusual to find an art museum in the town, the variety and number of artworks—Matisse, Chagall, Picasso, Miró, Gris, Maillot and many more—surprised and delighted me. On top of all that, there are the delights of French cuisine and regional food: fruit, vegetables, seafood and pâtés, sausages and cheese, wine etc.