The cliffs and bays of Porteils

In the south of France, just before the Spanish border, the eastern foothills of the Pyrenees meet the Mediterranean. This is where the extensive sandy beaches of Occitania end at Argelès-sur-Mer and transition into the rocky and bay-filled Côte Vermeille. In the hinterland, the peaks of the Massif des Albères reach over 1,200 metres in altitude, a paradise for hiking and cycling. Even the first stretch of coast at Porteils, between Argelès-sur-Mer and Collioure, offers a beautiful hike. The coastal path runs in a constant series of ups and downs, past spectacular rocks and bays, to one of the most picturesque seaside resorts in Roussillion.

The path begins west of Argelès-sur-Mer at Racou beach. It soon passes below the “Criques de Porteils” campsite. This site offers a top location and pitches with magnificent views of the sea or the mountains. We had booked in advance, and it was also low season, so we were able to enjoy a pitch with an unobstructed sea view. Luckily, there was no Tramontana blowing either – this stormy, cold wind from the mountains only shook us up later in Cadaqués.

The coastline is very susceptible to erosion, which is why the path has had to be rerouted in recent years. However, some of the small pebble beaches and rocky bays passed on the well-maintained and secured section are only accessible via steps from the campsite.

Hikers, on the other hand, can take a dip in the sea at the pebble beach of Plage de l’ouille before the path leads upwards one last time, short and steep. Soon you reach Fort Miradou above the bay of Collioure. In the picturesque old town of Collioure, you can go for a final swim, stop at one of the numerous restaurants and bars, and finally return to the starting point by train or bus.

Variety of geological formations

The coast of southern France, the “Côte Vermeille”, gets its characteristic landscape and reddish colouring from various rocks. These include slate, granite, gneiss, quartzite or limestone. The variety of geological formations makes the Côte Vermeille an interesting area for geologists and nature lovers. Wine lovers will also find excellent local wineries thanks to the Mediterranean climate, steep slopes and fertile soils. They are often powerful, aromatic and have a distinct minerality that distinguishes them from wines of other regions, e.g. the Banyuls sweet wines. In many local wineries, you can taste and buy the specialities directly.

The rugged and pointed rocks at Porteils are mainly formed by slate. Slate is known for its ability to break into thin, sharp plates, leading to the characteristic rugged and angular shapes. The transformation under the influence of high pressure and/or high temperatures gives the slate its typical layering and cleavage, contributing to the steep and jagged rock formations. The small bays between the rocks are ideal for snorkelling!

The landscape at the Criques de Porteils provides a habitat for a variety of plants adapted to the difficult conditions of salt spray, wind and nutrient-poor soils, also known as macchia or garrigue. Typical plant species that also made my hike a fragrant experience include rosemary,
and thyme, rock pinks, sea lavender, midday flowers, broom or mastic. Since – after years of drought – enough rain fell this spring, the landscape also bloomed in vibrant colours.