Evening Mood in Collioure Harbour

Collioure was our first stop on our journey through the artistic triangle in Catalonia (as well as the places beginning with “C”): Collioure, Cadaqués and Céret. A walk through Collioure in the evening, on the coast of the Côte Vermeille in Southern France, thus offered a first impressive experience.

I covered the short distance from the campsite to the bays of Porteils by bike and therefore quickly reached my central starting point: the Château Royal, the imposing fortress in the town centre. It was the first time I had taken my old mountain bike on a trip, and I was thrilled by the added flexibility, range, and quicker access to photo spots.
The walls of Fort St. Elme, perched on a ridge opposite, still glowed in the last golden light of the sunset, while the sea gently lapped against the rocks below the harbour promenade. As dusk deepened, the town’s lights began to shine and glittered, along with the streetlights, in the gently swaying water. From the fortress, I strolled on to the Quai de l’Amirauté. Colourful sailing boats are moored at this quay, their masts gently swaying to the rhythm of the waves against the backdrop of the old town and the church of “Notre Dame des Anges” – an attractive subject for artists and already an inspiration for significant painters such as Paul Signac, Étienne Terrus or André Derain.

After a long photo session, I walked through the cobbled streets of the old town. The houses, painted in pastel colours and adorned with blooming bougainvillea, were a real eye-catcher. A few steps further, I crossed the lively Place du 18 Juin, one of the central squares of social and tourist life in Collioure. The outdoor terraces of the restaurants and bars were also well-frequented here, and the laughter and conversations of people mingled with the sound of glasses and cutlery. The restaurants offered delicious local specialities, such as fresh seafood, paella, and the famous Anchois de Collioure.

Anchois de Collioure, or anchovies as they are called, are specially prepared anchovies characterised by an intense, salty taste. This is further enhanced by long maturation. Anchois de Collioure are not only a culinary delicacy but also an important part of local culture and economy. The tradition of anchovy processing has a long history in Collioure, and many family businesses have dedicated themselves to this craft for generations.

The old town culminates with the church of “Notre Dame des Anges”, situated directly between two sandy beaches. Its defensive silhouette, along with the distinctive bell tower, was reflected in the bay in the evening light. Street artists and musicians often linger here, their melodies spreading a romantic atmosphere. Art, in general, is everywhere – at many points in the town, the locations and perspectives of paintings are marked along an art trail or provided with reproductions. They invite contemplation and inspiration, for example, Matisse’s painting “Open Window in Collioure”.

At the end of my photo walk, I reached the outermost point of Collioure: the small lighthouse behind the Chapel of St. Vincent, at the end of the pier. There I enjoyed the view back – across the bay with the silhouette of the town and the towering mountains of the Massif des Albères behind it, a first foothills of the Pyrenees. We would travel there, with a detour to Cadaqués in Spain, towards the end of the trip.