Through the Zadar Archipelago into the Sunset

The ferry from Mali Lošinj to Zadar was to take us from the large islands of Kvarner Bay through the Zadar Archipelago back to the Croatian mainland. This concluded the first leg of our journey along the Croatian Adriatic coast, via the islands of Krk, Cres and Lošinj. The crossing takes approximately 6 hours. Departure is around 4 pm, so we would start in glorious afternoon light, then experience the sunset, dusk and the night sky at sea. We promised ourselves unforgettable impressions of a beautiful landscape, interesting encounters and wonderful lighting – and we were not disappointed.

The ferry left the island of Lošinj through the elongated bay at the end of which the town of Mali Lošinj is located. Besides many international tourists, there are also many Croatians from the mainland holidaying in their own country, as well as numerous locals on board. For the latter, the ferry is a normal public transport – often the only one. In addition, the ferries ensure the supply of the islands.

After a long curve to the southwest, we reached the open sea and sailed along the Čikat peninsula, which reminded me of my first stay in Croatia last year. A short time later, the picturesque Krivica Bay came into view, to which beautiful hiking trails also lead. To the west, the wide horizon lay before us, beyond the calm, open sea. Soon we passed the island of Ilovik, as the ferry followed its course south to the island of Premuda and finally left Kvarner Bay.

Like Lošinj, Premuda is a green island despite its karst subsoil, heavily overgrown with macchia and holm oaks. Below, the transparent blue of the water is fringed by a strip of brightly lit rocks. Only a few houses are grouped around the harbour. Those who disembark on Premuda want to explore the attractive diving spots or enjoy the peace and seclusion. Unfortunately, there’s no time for a short shore leave. We’re not on a cruise, even if it feels like one today.

The island of Silba, the next port on the schedule, is the northernmost of the Dalmatian islands. Also a rather small island like Premuda, both already belong to the 18 islands in the Zadar Archipelago. The arrival of the ferry is an event and breaks the leisurely flow of the day. Besides the waiting passengers, the small harbour is a meeting point for a large part of the local population; news is exchanged and the first aperitif is enjoyed at the bar. Even the brief glimpse of the island is extremely inviting and appealing, but this time I have a different travel plan.

The sun slowly sinks towards the horizon, making the hazy air glow orange. The sea shimmers like liquid gold. In the distance, the towering backbone of Lošinj island, the Osoršćica mountain range, remains visible for a long time. As we enter the harbour of Olib, situated in a wide bay, we pass numerous sailing boats and yachts already anchored for the night. Their crews are already enjoying the sunset on deck, while the last ships make their way to their safe anchorage. A young couple boarded at Silba, just like us in our younger days, travelling with only a backpack. He accompanies the sunset with a soft rhythm on his bongo. Slowly, the last daylight fades. With the twilight of an eventful day behind us, the ferry now steers into the dark blue of the approaching night.

We glide on calm seas, past the dark silhouettes of the sparsely inhabited islands of the archipelago – Ist, Molat, Ugljan. To the east lies the mainland; the lights of the towns mark the coastline. As settlement increases, so does the illumination, culminating at our destination, the large city of Zadar. One last look at the panorama with the old town and seafront promenade before we dock in Gaženica harbour and disembark. A short drive towards Split still lies ahead, to reach the ferry to Korčula in time for the next morning after an overnight stay.

More pictures in the Croatia Gallery.