On the Piazza delle Erbe in Verona

While the large Piazza Bra by the Arena di Verona (where the truly impressive opera performances take place in summer) is the tourist hub of Verona, the smaller Piazza delle Erbe feels more like Verona’s cosy living room – historically speaking, it’s even more significant. Framed by picturesque, historic buildings, the city’s history, from its origins as a Roman Forum to the rule of the Scaligeri and Venetians, vividly comes to life – best enjoyed with a drink in one of the numerous bars and restaurants (as an aside, I found the prices to be normal, which is probably why many locals meet there too). A tip – in the restaurant of the Palazzo Maffei, which is well worth seeing from the outside, you can not only inspect (and drink) an impressive selection of rare regional wines in the cellar, but also see the foundations of a former Roman temple. Narrow alleys with many boutiques, bars, and churches wind through the old town around the Piazza delle Erbe, where public life unfolds in typical Italian fashion; heading north, I recommend the path past the Chiesa di S. Anastasia to the Ponte Pietra, across the Adige to the old Roman theatre or further up the steep steps to the viewpoint at Castel San Pietro. If you haven’t had enough yet, I recommend the walk to the Santuario della Madonna di Lourdes church, which sits visibly on a hill high above the city and offers a wide panorama over Verona as far as Lake Garda and the mountains, such as Monte Baldo.