Arena di Verona – A Unique Opera Spectacle

Every summer, from July to September, the Verona Arena, a well-preserved Roman amphitheatre (built around 30 AD), is used for opera performances and concerts. The acoustics and atmosphere are outstanding, and a performance of Verdi’s Aida was the highlight of my visit to what is otherwise a very worthwhile Verona.

Hours before the performance, the city’s alleys and streets fill with many international visitors, eager to experience the historic city centre, observe the hustle and bustle and the couples in love at Juliet’s House with its supposed “Juliet” balcony, or get in the mood for the show with a drink on Piazza delle Erbe or Piazza Bra. Especially on a summer day with 34 degrees Celsius at 8 PM, I prefer a cool drink in a shady seat in Verona’s living room, the Piazza delle Erbe, rather than a sweaty city stroll. Nevertheless, I recommend arriving in the city early to spend at least the afternoon in the old town and soak up the atmosphere and mood.

The audience slowly gathers in the Arena; it’s lively and typically Italian, less formal than in “classical” opera houses. Evening gowns and suits are more commonly seen among those seated in the inner sections. The announcements to the audience – “Please do not throw seat cushions after the performance” – are always a hint at local customs. The performance then begins at 9 PM; the changing stage design and choreography are monumental, and the effects with candles and torches, which also involve the audience, create a unique and impressive atmosphere.

Verona is only 20 km from Lake Garda, so an active or beach holiday can be combined with a cultural highlight – quite suitable for families and children too (although the four-hour performance – with intermissions – does require some stamina).