What a dramatic sky at sunrise in Coccorocci Bay. The porphyry rocks glow a mystical pink in the twilight of dawn. Only the gurgling and crashing of the surf against the rocks can be heard; otherwise, there is peaceful silence. On a first day visit many years ago, I was very impressed by the rugged rocks, the grey pebble beach, the gnarled juniper trees and the wooded slopes below Monte Cartucceddu.
Murales are contemporary wall paintings found in towns and villages throughout Sardinia. The most famous are those in Orgosolo, a town nestled in the Supramonte Mountains in the Barbagia region, deep in Sardinia’s mountainous heartland. For generations, Orgosolo has carried a somewhat notorious reputation as a stronghold of criminals, bandits, and rebels.
The first murals appeared in 1975. Since then, they have addressed local, national, and international issues, offering critical perspectives on social and political developments and injustices. Many of the paintings are influenced by Cubism, giving them a distinctive artistic character. Read more
The beach at Marina di Gairo is truly unique. Lush green pine forests cascade down the valley slopes towards a dark grey, almost black pebble beach. Adding to the dramatic scenery, the shoreline is framed by brilliant red and pink porphyry cliffs and the steep, rugged rock faces of Monte Ferru. Marina di Gairo lies south of Planargia Beach near Bari Sardo and can be reached via a scenic access road winding through the surrounding landscape. Read more
Rising above the southern end of the fertile Bari Sardo plain, the isolated massif of Monte Ferru dominates the surrounding landscape. Its rocky summit stands 875 meters above the turquoise sea, and its solitary position promises sweeping panoramic views across the entire Ogliastra region on Sardinia’s eastern coast.
The panorama stretches from the long sandy shores of Planargia Beach past Arbatax to the Su Golgo plateau near Baunei, the rugged Supramonte Mountains, and the distinctive table mountains in the hinterland around Ulassai.
Monte Ferru’s eastern foothills extend all the way to the coast, creating a dramatic backdrop to the dark grey and black pebble beach at Marina di Gairo.
From my accommodation near Torre di Bari, I had occasionally noticed a mysterious glint of sunlight reflecting from the summit, sparking my curiosity. The prospect of spectacular views and unexpected discoveries was all the encouragement I needed to set out and explore the mountain. Read more
Yes, Sardinia’s beaches are undoubtedly among the finest treasures the island has to offer. But beyond its beautiful coastline lies a rugged, often inaccessible mountain wilderness, where generations of islanders sought refuge from pirates, successive foreign rulers, and invading armies. For thousands of years, these mountains provided both shelter and a homeland, profoundly shaping the people and the landscape.
This rich history stretches back to the Nuragic civilization, whose culture remains shrouded in mystery and is still far from fully understood. Scattered across the island, the ruins of ancient stone towers, defensive structures, and sacred sites bear witness to this fascinating past. Its legacy continues through the centuries to the traditional mountain villages and cultural landscapes of today.
The hinterland of Ogliastra, deep in Sardinia’s rocky heartland, is one such remote region. Here, alongside wandering goats and the traces of a turbulent history, wild and unspoiled landscapes still await discovery. Read more
We set off from our “base camp” on the beautiful Planargia Beach for an extended day trip through the sun-bleached hinterland of Ogliastra in eastern Sardinia.
After exploring the sparsely populated, rugged mountain wilderness, with its distinctive flat-topped limestone mountains known locally as tonneri and tacchi, and discovering the ruins of a Nuragic fortress at the Genna ’e Medau Pass, we finally reached the mountain village of Ulassai in the Riu Perdu valley in the afternoon, ready for a leisurely stop.
The village houses cling to the steep slopes beneath bizarre rock formations, a landscape riddled with caves and sinkholes. In fact, one of Sardinia’s most impressive caves is located right here near Ulassai and is open to visitors. Read more
A strong easterly breeze sends the waves rolling rhythmically towards the shore, where they break with a deep roar in a rush of white foam before surging far up the beach. Salty sea spray drifts across the sun-baked sands of Planargia Beach, while above Monte Ferru, the cumulus clouds that had just treated me to a warm summer shower are now drifting away in the humid heat.
Today is definitely a day for a walk along the beach rather than a swim. And it could turn into quite a long walk, as Planargia Beach stretches from the foothills of Monte Ferru all the way to the picturesque coastal watchtower of Torre di Bari, perched on a small rocky headland some 10 kilometers away on Sardinia’s eastern coast. Read more
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