Red Porphyry Cliffs on the Beach near Marina di Gairo, Ogliastra, Sardinia, Italy

The beach at Marina di Gairo is truly unique. Lush green pine forests cascade down the valley slopes towards a dark grey, almost black pebble beach. Adding to the dramatic scenery, the shoreline is framed by brilliant red and pink porphyry cliffs and the steep, rugged rock faces of Monte Ferru. Marina di Gairo lies south of Planargia Beach near Bari Sardo and can be reached via a scenic access road winding through the surrounding landscape.

From the parking area, I set off across a beach of coarse, dark pebbles and over the jagged cliffs. Before long, a narrow trail led northwards to a scenic viewpoint overlooking the coast. There, I settled down in the warm afternoon sunshine and simply took in the magnificent landscape. Meanwhile, a group of sea kayakers had stopped for a break in a secluded cove below my lookout, while a few Italians lounged casually on the rocks nearby. There was barely any wind, just the gentle sound of the waves washing against the shore. The entire scene felt wonderfully peaceful, almost as though it existed in a world of its own.

Incidentally, the name Marina di Gairo is connected to the nearby village of Gairo Cardeddu, a few kilometers inland. The settlement was founded by people from the mountainous hinterland of Ogliastra after their original hometown of Gairo was almost completely destroyed by a landslide.

On the way to Marina di Gairo, you pass the beautiful bay of Su Sirbone, whose beach can be reached via a short path across the cliffs. The children nicknamed it the Ghost Beach, inspired by an abandoned, crumbling hotel complex just behind the shore. With the wind whistling through the deserted buildings and the occasional sound of barking dogs echoing across the grounds, the place has an unmistakably eerie atmosphere. Yet the beach itself is particularly appealing to families with young children. Sheltered from the waves by its position within the bay, it offers fine sand and a gently sloping shoreline.

More pictures in the ‘Sardinia’ gallery.