Through the wild mountains of Ogliastra

Yes, Sardinia’s beaches are undoubtedly among the finest treasures the island has to offer. But beyond its beautiful coastline lies a rugged, often inaccessible mountain wilderness, where generations of islanders sought refuge from pirates, successive foreign rulers, and invading armies. For thousands of years, these mountains provided both shelter and a homeland, profoundly shaping the people and the landscape.
This rich history stretches back to the Nuragic civilization, whose culture remains shrouded in mystery and is still far from fully understood. Scattered across the island, the ruins of ancient stone towers, defensive structures, and sacred sites bear witness to this fascinating past. Its legacy continues through the centuries to the traditional mountain villages and cultural landscapes of today.
The hinterland of Ogliastra, deep in Sardinia’s rocky heartland, is one such remote region. Here, alongside wandering goats and the traces of a turbulent history, wild and unspoiled landscapes still await discovery.

My day trip took me from the coast near Torre di Bari through the southern foothills of the Gennargentu Mountains, with views towards Sardinia’s highest peaks, rising to 1,834 meters above sea level.
Passing through Lanusei, I continued towards Lake Alto di Flumendosa, where an inconspicuous, unmarked little road branches off to the west into the rugged limestone hills covered in Mediterranean scrub.
Although the road is paved throughout, the farther I drive from the junction, the larger the potholes become and the narrower the road gets, as grass and bushes gradually encroach from both sides.
The road climbs steadily through countless bends – as mountain roads inevitably do – and soon winds its way through dense holm oak forests. Towering above the treetops are the sheer rock faces along the northern escarpments of the impressive Monte Tonneri table mountains, rising to 1,323 meters.

The slender rock pinnacle of Monte Perda Liana (1,293 m) is particularly striking. The bizarre limestone formations on the southern side of the valley contrast sharply with the slate-covered ridges of the Gennargentu Mountains, which rise to the north with Monte Terralba (1,552 m) and Punta La Marmora (1,834 m).
Just before reaching the Genna ’e Medau Pass (991 m), the ruins of an ancient Nuragic fortress occupy a strategically commanding position, offering another magnificent panorama across the entire valley. From here, I can trace the route I have traveled so far, now seen from a completely different perspective.

After a leisurely break, I continue along the road as it winds southwards down towards Seui and Ussassai. Along the way, I once again encounter the narrow-gauge tracks of the Trenino Verde, the historic railway that skirts the mountain massif to the south.
Finally, I follow the SS198 down to the mountain village of Ulassai, where more fascinating discoveries await me, including the impressive Cave and the local Su Marmuri weaving cooperative.

More pictures in the ‘Sardinia’ gallery.