Traditional Handicrafts from the Su Marmuri Weaving Cooperative in Ulassai

We set off from our “base camp” on the beautiful Planargia Beach for an extended day trip through the sun-bleached hinterland of Ogliastra in eastern Sardinia.
After exploring the sparsely populated, rugged mountain wilderness, with its distinctive flat-topped limestone mountains known locally as tonneri and tacchi, and discovering the ruins of a Nuragic fortress at the Genna ’e Medau Pass, we finally reached the mountain village of Ulassai in the Riu Perdu valley in the afternoon, ready for a leisurely stop.
The village houses cling to the steep slopes beneath bizarre rock formations, a landscape riddled with caves and sinkholes. In fact, one of Sardinia’s most impressive caves is located right here near Ulassai and is open to visitors.

The village is also home to the local Su Marmuri weaving cooperative, where handmade textiles crafted from Sardinian wool and featuring traditional local designs have been produced for more than thirty years. Its products include towels, bedspreads, tablecloths, curtains, and rugs.
Visitors are warmly welcomed to watch the artisans at work on their looms and gain an insight into the traditional weaving process. My Italian, which is better suited to practical matters such as food and transport, was not always sufficient to follow the explanations given by the women at work. Nevertheless, I came away with a good understanding of the demanding craftsmanship involved and the economic opportunities it provides for this relatively underdeveloped region.
The cooperative also has its own shop, where visitors can – and are certainly encouraged to – purchase the handmade products directly. They make wonderful souvenirs of an authentic piece of Sardinia, with prices that reflect the quality and craftsmanship of each item.

Before continuing our journey, we pause in the courtyard of the cooperative on the edge of the village, taking in the sweeping view down into the valley towards our next destination. Far below, the landscape becomes greener and more fertile, with vineyards carpeting the hillsides. This is where the famous Cannonau wine of Jerzu is produced, and a visit to the local winery is well worth the stop.
What more could a traveler ask for? Artisanal craftsmanship and culinary delights, breathtaking landscapes, and the warm hospitality of the local people – the very essence of an unforgettable journey through Sardinia.

More pictures in the ‘Sardinia’ gallery.