Riquewihr – A Feast of Half-Timbered Houses, History, and Delights

The second leg of our journey along the Southern Wine Route in Alsace took us from Ribeauvillé to the nearby Riquewihr (Reichenweiher), just a few kilometres away. I had already covered the route the day before on a bike tour through the vineyards and taken a first stroll through the old town to look for photo opportunities.

In Riquewihr, we once again stayed at the local municipal campsite (“Camping Municipal”) and were not disappointed: a warm welcome, spacious pitches, clean washrooms, plenty of greenery, and lots of peace and quiet. Surprisingly, despite being pre-season, the site was fully booked – we had, exceptionally (and as it turned out, fortunately), made a reservation the day before. The reason was probably the weather: while southern regions reported cold and rain or significantly cooled down at night, Alsace promised sunny days and more bearable mild evenings.

Like many villages and towns along the Wine Route, Riquewihr is nestled between hills and surrounded by vineyards, from which some of Alsace’s finest wines originate. The Grand Cru sites Schoenenbourg and Sporen enjoy an excellent reputation far beyond France. From the hills, picturesque views open up time and again: the Rhine Valley shimmering in the sun, the Kaiserstuhl, and, on a clear day, the dark mountain ranges of the Black Forest.

The old town of Riquewihr, with its many well-preserved townhouses, is an architectural gem – and almost entirely surrounded by a medieval town wall that once formed two defensive rings. These structures can still be clearly traced today, for example, at the Dolder Tower, the 25-metre-high, fortified clock tower dating from 1291. It once served as a watchtower, town gate, and last bastion against attackers – today it houses a museum. In front of the Dolder, another reinforced town gate was built in the 15th century – a double fortification that only particularly prosperous places could afford.

A narrow path between the two town walls leads to the Tour des Voleurs, the medieval Thieves’ Tower – once a dungeon and torture chamber in one. In its shadow, in the semi-darkness, a man tinkers with his old motorbike. The scene seems to be frozen in time – and that is exactly what Riquewihr is: a place that elegantly defies the passage of time.

In the late Middle Ages and early modern period, Riquewihr was a flourishing centre of wine trade. The town’s wealth is still evident today in the magnificent half-timbered houses from the 15th to 18th centuries, many with intricately carved beam heads, richly decorated oriel windows, and elaborate guild signs. One passes through the lower town gate, which was rebuilt in the neoclassical style in the 19th century, and follows the main street gently uphill – past one of Alsace’s tallest half-timbered houses, over 25 metres high, and the Renaissance house of the Württemberg-Montbéliard family, which once served a princely administrator.

Particularly impressive are also the Gourmet’s House and the Nail Smith’s House, with their artfully carved representations of professions and decorations on the corner posts. Those who leave the main street and follow the side alleys will discover hidden gems such as the Dissler House with its Renaissance façade or the Conrad-Ortlieb House, which once belonged to a wealthy cloth merchant.

Another highlight is the Square of the Three Churches, which was once a churchyard – an extraordinary testament to religious diversity. The medieval parish church of Sainte-Marguerite, dedicated to Saint Margaret of Antioch, was built as early as the 12th century as a Romanesque-Gothic choir tower church. The pilgrimage church of Notre-Dame, built around 1337 by Ulrich III of Württemberg-Rappoltstein, housed a miraculous image of Mary and was once a much-visited pilgrimage site. After the Reformation, it was converted into a Protestant rectory. The church of Saint-Erard, originally a hospital chapel from the late 14th century, was dedicated to Saint Erhard of Regensburg. It too was repurposed for Protestant use; today, surviving remnants of a mural depicting the Last Judgement and an Alemannic inscription bear witness to its former use.

Thus, the Square of the Three Churches today stands as a silent witness to history: historical ruins, Protestant and Catholic places of worship – a unique ensemble that impressively etches the cultural and confessional development of this Alsatian wine village in stone.

History and Indulgence – Culinary Delights in Alsace

Culinary, Riquewihr is as rich as it is architectural. In the small shops, colourful macarons, airy Kougelhopf, and spicy Pain d’épices – gingerbread with honey and spices according to an old Alsatian recipe – beckon. In the wine taverns and restaurants, regional classics are served: pork (often the shoulder cut, then it’s Schifala), sauerkraut cooked with Riesling and seasoned with a dash of kirsch – the quintessential Alsatian dish – chicken in Riesling sauce – Coq au Riesling, Bibbeleskäs, a fresh herb quark with potatoes, or the hearty Choucroute garnie, sauerkraut with various sausages and smoked meats. Tarte flambée – the Alsatian flatbread (flammenkueche) – is also found on almost every menu, sometimes classic with onions and bacon, sometimes modern with goat’s cheese or mushrooms, as well as Baeckeoffe, an Alsatian stew where three different types of meat are cooked together: beef, lamb, and pork. Carrots, onions, potatoes, cabbage, and another good splash of white wine are also added. As a sweet treat, the Kougelhof is well-known. Unlike the “Gugelhupf” popular in Austria, Kougelhof is a brioche dough, decorated with whole almonds and filled with raisins. Usually, some kirsch or rum is also mixed into the dough.

To accompany this, one enjoys a Riesling, Pinot Gris, or a sparkling Crémant from the surrounding vineyards – often directly from the winemaker. The combination of hearty home cooking and the fine aromas of white wine reflects the soul of Alsace: down-to-earth, yet refined; historical, yet vibrant. Just like Riquewihr itself.

We were excited to see what the coming days in Colmar and Eguisheim would have in store for us.