Ribeauvillé – Between Vines, Ruins, and Romance

We drove the last few kilometres through lush green hills full of vineyards, until finally the colourful half-timbered houses of Ribeauvillé announced the destination of our first stage of this journey along the Southern Wine Route in Alsace. My home is the Northern Black Forest, so many decades ago we often visited Northern Alsace for hiking, cycling, or simply to eat Flammkuchen. We had never made it to Southern Alsace, to the area around Colmar, and had thus missed out on places worth seeing like Ribeauvillé, Riquewihr, Colmar, Kaysersberg and Eguisheim – but that was about to change.

Ribeauvillé is located at the transition from the Rhine Plain to the high peaks and narrow valleys of the Vosges. The gentle vine-covered slopes rise steeply behind the town, leading up to the dense mixed forests of the Vosges, where three castle ruins are enthroned on a wooded ridge: Ulrichsburg (Château de Saint-Ulrich), Girsberg and Hohrappoltstein. These stone witnesses to a turbulent past are accessible via well-signposted hiking trails and offer magnificent views of the vineyards, the Rhine Plain – and, on a clear day, as far as the Black Forest.

The three castles were once the ancestral seat of the Lords of Ribeaupierre (Rappoltstein), one of the most powerful noble families in Alsace. Ulrichsburg, built in the 11th century, was the main fortress and was expanded over centuries. The smaller castles of Girsberg and Hohrappoltstein were added later when the family divided. Even today, you can walk past crenellated walls and climb the keep of Ulrichsburg – with the wind sweeping through the ruins and the view over the historic towns, a touch of the Middle Ages can almost be physically felt.

Ribeauvillé’s old town is an urban planning gem. It is characterised by numerous well-preserved houses from the 16th and 17th centuries, many with typical Alsatian half-timbering, colourful facades, and richly decorated windows and doors. Nestled among them are even older buildings from the time of the town’s founding in the 13th century, such as the Romanesque-Gothic parish church of Saint-Grégoire-le-Grand, whose tower still dominates the townscape today. Not far away stands the Metzgerturm (Butchers’ Tower), which, as a defensive and gate tower, marked the border between the upper and lower towns, which at times belonged to different lordships and fiefdoms, and is now probably the town’s most famous landmark.

Ribeauvillé was also a cultural centre in the Middle Ages. It is particularly known for its tradition of minnesingers – the so-called Pfiffer (pipers). These travelled from castle to castle, performed songs and stories, and were protected by the Lords of Ribeaupierre. Even today, the Minnesängerhaus (Pfifferhüs) with its carved figures on the facade commemorates this era. Every September, the “Pfifferdaj” festival takes place, a historical procession with music, costumes, and lively historical re-enactment, which is one of the oldest folk festivals in Alsace.

Our first evening stroll through Ribeauvillé began at the popular town garden and led past the Winzerbrunnen (Winegrowers’ Fountain), an artfully designed water feature depicting scenes from viticulture, into the old town. The Grand’Rue, the long main street, is the pulsating heart of the small town. Cobblestones, cosy squares, small boutiques, wine cellars, and cafés line up one after another. Next to the Kornhalle (Grain Hall) with its Gothic canopies, under which grain was once traded, stands the Auberge zum Elefanten, a magnificent Renaissance house that once served as a post station.

The town administration provides a well-produced brochure with a town map, listing interesting details about all the outstanding churches and chapels, fountains, and bourgeois houses – an ideal tool for the culturally interested flâneur.

Soon, the town’s landmark dominated the increasingly narrow main street: the Metzgerturm. At Place de la République, the western end of the old town, the central fountain invited visitors to linger. Here, where wine lovers and locals meet for a glass of beer, Crémant d’Alsace, or a Riesling white wine, you can feel the cosy, cosmopolitan nature of the place.

On the way back to Place de la Sinne and the baroque Friedrichsbrunnen, the last rays of sun accompanied us, falling through the narrow alleys like natural light shafts. Once, the light seemed to shine precisely through the gap between two houses, then again through an artfully forged advertising sign, gleaming golden like a sign from another time. Ribeauvillé, it seemed at that moment, doesn’t just live from its history – it lives in it.

Viticulture in Ribeauvillé has a long tradition and is known for its high quality

When strolling through Ribeauvillé, you’ll pass many wine shops and direct sales outlets from producers, but you can also often get an insight into wine production directly at the wineries, find suitable wines for tasting, and then fill your boot with wine boxes.

In Ribeauvillé, the well-known traditional Alsatian grape varieties are cultivated. These include Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Sylvaner, and Pinot Noir, which are produced both as single-varietal wines and in blends (Cuvées). The quality of the wines is often considered high, with each grape variety having its own characteristic flavour profile. Around the town are three so-called “Grand Cru” sites: Geisberg, Kirchberg, and Osterberg.

The Grands Crus sites are known for their unique terroirs and microclimates that shape the wines. Wines from these sites are often of high quality and are valued for their authenticity and ageing potential. The wines must be produced from a single grape variety, and strict legal regulations are in place to protect the quality and character of the wines. The quality of the wines depends not only on the grape variety but also on the vineyards (terroir), the climate, the vinification, and the skills of the winemaker. Many winemakers in Ribeauvillé place great importance on sustainable cultivation methods and careful winemaking, which positively impacts the quality of their wines.

In Alsace, mainly white wines are produced: Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, and Muscat. Pinot Noir is the only permitted red grape variety. Crémant d’Alsace, a sparkling wine, is also made from Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay.

The Riesling is known for its delicate aroma, elegance, and freshness. Dry, elegant, mineral with aromas of stone fruit like peach and apricot. The Gewürztraminer, on the other hand, is powerful, aromatic, and often with exotic fruit notes, e.g., lychee, roses, and spices. The Pinot Gris is full-bodied and rich, powerful, often with aromas of honey, ripe fruits, and a slightly smoky undertone, whereas the Pinot Blanc is milder, spring-like, and delicate, with aromas of pear and apple. The Sylvaner is characterised by a lively, light, and refreshing taste, often with aromas of green fruits and flowers. The Muscat is dry, crisp, and intensely aromatic with an intense scent and taste of grapes. The Pinot Noir is the only relevant red grape variety in Alsace and produces a fresh, light, and fruity-tasting red wine.

In addition to the aforementioned grape varieties, Alsace also offers the so-called “Edelzwicker“, a blend of various white grape varieties, as well as Crémant d’Alsace, a sparkling wine also made from Alsatian grape varieties.