Smögen – Postcard Idyll and Bustling Hub

Smögen, located on the island of the same name, is one of the most popular summer destinations on the Swedish west coast – whether by car or campervan, motorboat or sailing boat. The focus is on the Smögenbryggan, a long harbour promenade with cafés and restaurants, boutiques and souvenir shops. Smögen is also known for its colourful boathouses, fishing huts and storehouses, built between the sea and the towering granite rocks. After the quieter days on Malö or Tjörn, the hustle and bustle in Smögen was a stark contrast.

It can get quite crowded on the wooden pier along the harbour, especially from midday to evening, when day-trippers and overnight guests flock to the restaurants and snack bars. These offer numerous variations of the equally famous prawns (“Smögenräkor”) caught here in the Skagerrak Sea. Many sailing yachts and motorboats are moored directly along the promenade, offering an interesting glimpse into the cramped or modest to spacious and luxurious life on board – depending on the size of the vessel (and the owner’s wealth).

At the western end of the promenade, the quieter part of the island begins. My walk led in an arc westwards to some of the local bathing coves along the rocky coast. A rough breeze blew against me, even making me sway in the wind, and didn’t inspire a swim, even though the sea sparkled in the sun. So I continued south. Shortly after the large car park, a path leads through a narrow rock gorge. Just a few metres further and the rocky landscape opens up again. This is how I reached the Kleven viewpoint and found myself briefly in the seclusion of the archipelago coast. But these contrasts, in turn, are what make Smögen so appealing. I was looking forward to the next morning, as we had a central, yet quietly located (and legal) pitch for the night.