Malö: A World Between

Glowing clouds at dusk over a wooden jetty on the island of Malö in the archipelago of the Swedish west coast

While driving along the West Swedish archipelago coast, we’ve already visited or crossed many islands, both large and small. The island of Malö, situated between Orust, Skaftö and Flatö—the crossing over a bridge is barely noticeable—is just a transit point for many. The westernmost and fastest connection between the islands runs through here, with only two sounds, just a few hundred metres wide, to be crossed by car ferry. Their crossings then determine the rhythm of the traffic on the only island road; between departures and in the evenings, however, there is silence. That’s exactly why we liked it in this “world between”.

Journey across the Gullmarsfjord by car ferry between Skår and Finnsbo in the archipelago of the Swedish west coast

While Flatö is a green island with plenty of forest, pastures and scattered farmhouses, Malö (also written as Malön) offers a rather barren, rockier landscape. On the main road, there’s a campsite by a small bay with jetties and a lookout hill, as well as pitches right by the water. Unfortunately, we had mostly rain during our stay and only a few periods of good weather, which didn’t stand in the way of relaxation. Especially since, besides the island itself, Lysekil on the large Gullmarsfjord or Orust were within easy reach for excursions.

Pink kiosk at the car ferry terminal between Ängön and Fruvik in the archipelago of the Swedish west coast

Between excursions and reading time in the tent during rain showers, I enjoyed sitting on the hill or by the jetty, letting my gaze glide over the water of the Malö Strömmar and its bays. Since the 9th stage of the Kuststigen hiking trail passes through here, I walked a section of this path over to Flatön and back. In a place like this, I realised once again how much more flexibility, range and closeness to nature bicycles would bring here—but unfortunately, there was no room for them this time.

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