A walk along the city walls of Dubrovnik

One of the highlights of my stay in Dubrovnik was the walk along the massive city walls. Their origins date back to the Middle Ages and they were expanded to today’s impressive size until the 16th century.

I was already out and about in the Old Town early in the morning, when it’s still quiet and almost empty – the delivery services and bin lorries weren’t out yet, and the clacking sound of tourists’ suitcases on their way to the bus or airport didn’t start until later. So I was among the first visitors after opening time, before the crowds build up on the narrow ramparts and stairs. Unfortunately, I didn’t make it back to one of the battlements for sunset later on; that must be an even more elevated experience.

The entrance is near the eastern Ploce Gate. From there, I first had a look out over the Revelin Fortress in front. Inside the walls at this point, the 13th-century Dominican Monastery complex dominates the scene.

Narrow stairs then lead upwards over the massive land-side fortifications to the highest point at Minceta Fortress. I didn’t want to be walking here in the midday sun – without shade in the heat rising from the city.

The views into and over the city are truly unique and well worth the entrance fee of around €30 – which also includes the museums. Our neighbour at the campsite, on the other hand, despite travelling in a 7-metre motorhome including a trailer for motorbikes and BBQ gear, grumbled about what he considered a horrendous price. I see that as a lack of appreciation for the locals’ efforts.

Then it was back down the stairs and southwards across the Pile Gate. From Bokar Fortress, at the south-west corner of the Old Town, I looked across to Lovrijenac Fortress, which will probably look familiar to many viewers of the series Game of Thrones as a filming location. I remembered the great sunset I had experienced the day before down there in the square between the two walls.

Gradually, the alleys and squares in the Old Town also fill up, which is lovely to watch from above. On the southern side, facing the sea, there is a door in the wall. Behind it, steep stairs lead past a cafe/restaurant down to a swimming spot – what a great (and probably always crowded) place in the evening.

Finally, after an hour and a half and a distance of around two kilometres, I reached the starting point of the circuit again. Afterwards, I drifted through the alleys of the Old Town for a while and ended up at the tranquil Old Harbour.

I followed the quay wall around the St John Fortress and finally reached another swimming spot, directly below the towering defensive walls. The light-coloured stones reflected the bright sunlight and, with the additional radiation, made it quite warm even early in the morning.

Since the morning was actually getting too hot for me with the heavy camera bag, I started my way back and the short drive to the campsite. The afternoon was then to include a trip up Mount Srd and the area around the Old Town, for example the great viewpoints at the Belvedere hotel ruins.