The first impression from the plane window of the Cape Verde Islands offers rubble and stony deserts, sand dunes, and dried-up watercourses from coast to coast, washed by a crystal-clear sea. Only a few elevations rise above the flat land. Most prominent are the airport’s radio facilities, the large tanks at the port near Palmeira, and the only asphalted road on Cape Verde, which runs like a black ribbon from Espargos past the airport to the south of the island, standing out from the palette of brown-yellow earth colours. This is how the predominant landscape of the eastern island presents itself, startling many visitors who, poorly informed, had expected more lush vegetation. Immigration formalities were surprisingly quick, and we were immediately besieged by taxi drivers with whom skilful negotiation was required. If you’re not proficient in the official language, Portuguese, or Cape Verdean Crioulo, French, Spanish, or English can help in many situations. These language skills are a testament to the emigration work of older generations, whereas for the younger ones, learning a foreign language at school is intended to open up a better future. Eventually, we agree on a price that satisfies everyone and begin our journey to Santa Maria in the south of the island, where the initial impression of the desolate landscape only intensifies.

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