Changing of the Presidential Guard (Evzones)

Our personal city tour by a friend (and Athenian) started at Syntagma Square in front of the Parliament building in the centre of Athens. Because there, in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the hourly changing of the Presidential Guard, the so-called Evzones, takes place. The special thing about this changing of the guard is the choreography of an impressive and precise sequence of steps, characterised by elegance, discipline and symbolism. In parts more like a dance than a walk, it reminds me of the famous Monty Python sketch “The Ministry of Silly Walks“, but of course, such a comparison is out of the question for this serious ceremony.

At the beginning, the new guard marches in a line to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. They are often accompanied by an officer whose job is to prevent people from getting too close to the sentries or speaking to them. The march is characterised by slow, rhythmic and emphasised steps. Suddenly, the tall, uniformed men throw their legs high, remain motionless in this dynamic pose and then strike the ground loudly with their clogs.

The new guards position themselves directly in front of the two soldiers currently on duty. The Evzones’ rifles are then lifted from the shoulder and exchanged with precise choreography. This takes place synchronously and in absolute silence. A symbolic exchange of responsibility occurs – the entire process remains silent and with the highest concentration. The relieved Evzones finally march back to their barracks, accompanied by equally synchronised movements. At the end, the new guards take their positions at the tomb, with rifles in the rest position, and remain there for their one- to two-hour shift. Different country, different uniform, the same standing still for hours: a mounted sentry at Horse Guards in London.

The guard uniform includes a white shirt with very wide sleeves (Ypodetes), a black waistcoat embroidered with traditional motifs (Phemeli) and a black leather belt with a bayonet holder over it. Also characteristic is the kilt-like “Fustanella” – a pleated skirt – as well as a red cap with a long tassel (Phareon). The footwear consists of white woollen stockings, black silk stockings with tassels and red leather shoes with the striking black pom-poms (Tsarouchia). The soles are fitted with nails that create a loud clicking sound with every step. In summer the skirt is white, while the uniform for autumn and winter is dark blue.

The two soldiers in a pair are selected so that they have the same height, posture and stature as far as possible. This visual uniformity is an essential part of the traditional presentation. The soldiers in a pair also look out for each other in other ways while on duty. They represent the unity and strength of Greece and stand for values such as honour, respect and patriotism. Their joint appearance shows the dignity and pride associated with the honourable task of guarding the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.