Of Philanthropists and Philhellenes

During our city tour of Athens, we passed striking buildings and works of art with interesting backstories involving philanthropists and philhellenes (friends of Greece). In a personal compilation, I’d like to mention a few examples of these connections, which on this day were closely linked not only geographically but also in terms of content.

After the changing of the Presidential Guard at the Parliament, the Zappeion was the next destination on our walking tour route. So I’ll start with this neoclassical building, which is used as a multi-functional venue for events and conferences. It was designed by the Danish-Austrian master builder and architect Theophil von Hansen, who worked in Athens and Vienna in the 19th century. Other buildings by this philhellene still shape the cityscape of Athens today, such as the Academy, the University, the Library and the Metropolitan Cathedral.

The Zappeion was built between 1874 and 1888 by the site manager Ernst Ziller, a student of Hansen who came from a famous Saxon family of master builders. He was also active as an architectural researcher and archaeologist. This fact brings me to the next thematic link and the next sight on our city tour.

We owe the discovery of the ancient Panathenaic Stadium in the Kallimarmaro district to Ernst Ziller. He led the excavation and reconstruction of today’s Panathenaic Stadium, where the first modern Olympic Games were opened in 1896. The Zappeion was also used as a competition venue at that time.

There is another noteworthy connection between these places and people: through the merchant and patron Evangelos Zappas. As a philanthropist, he financed the construction of sports halls and exhibition buildings, but above all the staging of the “Olympics”. These were sporting events that are considered precursors to the modern Olympic Games (and possibly inspired Baron Pierre de Coubertin to found the International Olympic Committee).

After his death, Zappas bequeathed the majority of his fortune to the “Olympic Committee” on the condition that suitable venues be built for these games. As a result, today we can admire the Athens Panathenaic Stadium reconstructed by Ziller and the Zappeion named after Zappas.

Another admirer of Greek culture, but at a completely different time, was the Roman Emperor Hadrian. In the 2nd century AD, he had games and competitions held in Athens, which can be seen in the tradition of the ancient Olympic Games. With significant building projects, he promoted the cultural and social identity of the Greeks. He completed the construction of the Olympieion, one of the largest temples in ancient Greece. Our path from the Panathenaic Stadium over to the Acropolis took us past the Olympieion district. In doing so, we walked through the remains of Hadrian’s Arch, which the Athenians had built in honour of the benevolent Roman Emperor.

As we slowly approached the Acropolis, we looked out over the ruins of the ancient Theatre of Dionysus on its southern slope. Its archaeological excavation was also significantly overseen by – you guessed it – Ernst Ziller. The Theatre of Dionysus is considered the first theatre in the world and was therefore naturally the most important theatre in ancient Greece. Many works were premiered at annual festivals, including those by Sophocles.

We had already passed a bust of Sophocles at the start of the tour, between Syntagma Square and the Zappeion. Trivia: Sophocles is the author of such significant tragedies as Antigone, Oedipus Rex or Electra – who remembers those from their school days?

We enjoyed the evening sun and the panoramic view on Pnyx Hill once more before the descent to Monastiraki. In the evening, the circle of this city round trip and my story closed with the columns of Hadrian’s Library at the central Monastiraki Square.

On the way, we had already been able to catch a promising glimpse of the menu and the inviting dining room of the restaurant Caravin – our location for this evening. A place with the motto “Wine and Wanderlust” couldn’t be a more fitting choice.