The hot thermal springs of Saturnia

On our short trip in autumn, we crossed Italy through Tuscany and Umbria, from Talamone on the west coast past Lake Bolsena and Orvieto up to Assisi. Later, we crossed the Apennines near the source of the Tiber and reached the Adriatic coast. Along the way, we came to an inconspicuous valley in the picturesque Tuscan landscape, amidst rolling hills and fragrant forests, home to the thermal springs of Saturnia.

Under the soft light of the Tuscan sun, the water shimmers in shades of turquoise and emerald, while on a crisp morning, especially in autumn and winter, steam wafts over the surface, filling the air with a touch of mysticism in the twilight. If you want to experience a moment like something out of a travel brochure, you now have to be there before sunrise (and even then, other photographers are sure to be on site already).

These hot springs originate from the volcanic subsoil of Monte Amiata, where the water is enriched with minerals and heated before emerging at the earth’s surface near Saturnia. The water flows through streams to the so-called Cascate del Mulino, where over centuries it has naturally formed travertine terraces, waterfalls, and pools. Unlike the spa and thermal baths in the village, bathing here is free. But the place isn’t lonely or spiritually remote – perhaps it once was for the Etruscans and Romans. From a large car park, you walk past a restaurant to the banks of the cascades and share the pools with other guests.

Be sure to bring water shoes – the ground is covered everywhere with coarse pebbles and stones, which can feel uncomfortable for sensitive soles.