At the Square of Miracles in Pisa

It’s not without reason that the “Square of Miracles” (Piazza dei Miracoli) in Pisa is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The monumental cemetery (Camposanto Monumentale), the round Baptistery (Battistero), the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and, of course, the “Leaning Tower” (Campanile) form a unique, cohesive architectural ensemble in the style of medieval Pisan Romanesque.

The buildings were constructed from the 11th century AD over a period of 200 years and are built entirely from white Carrara marble. In the midday sun, the façades radiate brightly and purely, appearing airy and light – thus concealing the immense scale and mass of the buildings. Soon after construction began, the first parts of the Cathedral started to sink into the soft ground. With the Cathedral’s side aisle as a reference point, the menacing lean of the “Leaning Tower of Pisa” becomes particularly evident.

Towards evening, the colour of the façades shifts to a golden yellow. Now in autumn, the air is clearer and less hazy, allowing the southern light to accentuate the architectural contours. The stream of visitors climbing the tower doesn’t abate, as it offers a magnificent overview of the complex. The western city wall also provides a beautiful view, especially with the low evening sun behind you.

After sunset, I was delighted by the unexpected reddish ‘glow’ of the buildings in the indirect twilight of the light cirrus clouds at dusk. The white surface gives the façade the ability to transform depending on different lighting moods. So, you should never pack up your equipment too early. There is often that one brief magical moment between day and night when time seems to stand still, yet passes so quickly.