Tag Archive for: Tongariro National Park

Lake Rotoaira and Tongariro

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Lake Rotoaira in front of the Tongariro Massif, Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

Long before the first Europeans, the Māori, a South Sea people, settled the ‘Land of the Long White Cloud’. According to their legend, the first tribes arrived in twelve large canoes in their new home, New Zealand. There are numerous myths and stories about the settlement in many different versions, one of which will be told here. The navigator of one of the first canoes, the tohunga Ngātoro-i-rangi, set off inland one day with several companions, where he Mount Tongariro spotted and immediately decided to climb. He ordered his companions to fast until his return and set off with the slave Auruhoe. But those left behind grew hungry and broke their fast, which angered the gods, who sent thunderstorms to the mountains. Ngātoro and Auruhoe were freezing bitterly, and with his last strength, Ngātoro prayed to his gods. They heard him and sent fire via an underground route, which, however, rose too early and left a trail of volcanic activity. With full force, it finally erupted at Tongariro and thawed Ngātoro out. Auruhoe, however, was already dead. Ngātoro sacrificed the body to the gods in gratitude for his rescue and threw it into the crater, which has since borne the name Ngauruhoe .

All images from the ‘World Images’ edition

Old Waihohonu Hut in Tongariro

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Old Waihohonu Hut, Tongariro National Park, North Island, New Zealand

The historic Old Waihohonu Hut, located in the centre of New Zealand’s North Island and the Tongariro National Park, was built in 1901. It’s a relic from the uncomfortable days of the coach connection from the Whanganui River up to the steamboat on Lake Taupo and further up via the Desert Road. The hut served as an overnight stop at the end of a tiring, bumpy stage along cart tracks through the wilderness. While the hardships of the journey for those seeking relaxation and nature lovers are less today, the rugged charm of the surroundings has fortunately remained unchanged. It’s understandable that the national park’s new huts have already recorded over 10,000 overnight stays.

Waihi at Lake Taupo

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Lake Taupo, Tongariro National Park, North Island New Zealand

Highway 41 passes to the west of Lake Taupo in the centre of New Zealand’s North Island and north of Tongariro National Park. To the southwest of Lake Taupo lies the village of Waihi, which is still home to a large MaoriMāori community. Many generations ago, a chief lived there, Te Heuheu Tukino IV, who determined the future of the sacred mountains with a far-sighted and wise decision. Until the mid-20th century, new immigrants from Europe were not only pushing to climb the mountains but were also claiming increasingly large areas for colonisation. The chief saw the danger that his ancestors and his spiritual centre would fall to the Pākehā and be divided up, just as other areas had been before. Therefore, the mountain peaks were to be gifted to the New Zealand government, and thus to all citizens of the country, on the condition that a national park be created from them. This gift led to the creation of Tongariro National Park in 1887, New Zealand’s first national park and the fourth in the world, following the origins of the national park concept in Yellowstone, USA.

Mangatepopo Hut, Tongariro National Park

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Sunset at Mangatepopo Hut, Tongariro National Park, North Island New Zealand

Many visitors to Tongariro National Park pass by the Mangatepopo Hut shortly after starting the Tongariro Crossing, but without stopping. Most visitors here are preparing for an early morning ascent of Mount Ngauruhoe or are heading for the nearby climbing walls of Pukikaikiore. I spent many fun hours in the hut playing games or enjoying impressive evening light moods with views as far as Taranaki.

Oturere Hut, Tongariro National Park

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Oturere Hut, Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

Oturere Hut is set in the middle of a desert landscape full of rock debris and ash remains in the east of Tongariro National Park, with a waterfall nearby for a shower and, in clear weather, the morning glow of Ngauruhoe at sunrise. Here, the park shows a completely different, wilder side compared to Waihohonu Hut with its mountain rainforests and grasslands, the fascinating views from the slopes near Ketetahi Hut, or the climbing rocks near Mangatepopo Hut. However, it’s also gained fame among visitors for the sheer number and monstrous size of the black blowflies that swarm around the hut and the toilet block. But those fat buzzers are actually completely harmless!

Waihohonu Hut, Tongariro National Park

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Waihohonu Hut, Tongariro National Park, North Island, New Zealand

The (new) Waihohonu Hut is located at the only junction of four tracks southeast of Ngauruhoe — leading to Desert Road, Ruapehu, Whakapapa, and Oturere Hut. Waihohonu Hut is situated on one of the first tourist routes in this region, which began with the construction of the Old Waihohonu Hut in 1901. A small stream runs below the hut, which I loved using as a bathtub during my multi-day stays as a hut warden. I particularly enjoy remembering the many hikers and their evening accounts of their experiences during their stay in the park and the impressions it left on them.

Mountain rainforest near the Waihohonu Hut

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Mountain rainforest near the Waihohonu Hut, Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

Not far from the Waihohonu Hut, the Northern Circuit hiking trail passes through lush mountain beech forests at mid-altitude on the way to the Oturere Hut. This spot is a perfect example of this rich vegetation with its ferns and mosses. Stately streams meander through deep-cut valleys. Plenty of birds can be seen here, especially the curious fantails and robins.