Autumn Hikes in the Puez-Geisler Nature Park

After the first autumnal snowfall at the end of September, a short window of good weather and sunshine was forecast. I wanted to spend a night at the Schlüterhütte, at 2,300 m at the transition from Campill to the Villnöß Valley. It is a central base for tours on and around the Peitlerkofel, the Villnöß Geisler, and the Puez and Geisler Peaks, but it is also located on Dolomiten Höhenweg No. 2 and the long-distance hiking trail Munich – Venice.

For the ascent, I chose the path through the Mühlental, past the rustic water mills and the centuries-old farmhouses of the hamlets of Misci and Seres, all of which are among Campill’s historical sights. Via an increasingly steep path, I reached the high plateau of the Petzesalm and Peitlerwiesen. From here, I first enjoyed the wide panorama of the peaks of the Fanes-Sennes-Prags Group behind the Gadertal, stretching to the Valparola Pass and the Cinque Torri on the horizon.

Although there was little snow at this altitude, a lack of fitness, uncertain path conditions, and a summit shrouded in clouds made me decide against the detour to the summit of the Kleiner Peitlerkofel. Instead, I went directly over the Kreuzkofeljoch to the Zendleser Kofel, a panoramic mountain with an impressive 360-degree view at 2,421 m. The previously deep clouds now gradually cleared, and the sun warmed my heart and limbs on this cold autumn day in the Dolomites.

Directly below me lay my day’s destination, the Schlüterhütte. Behind it, to the south, rose the Sobutsch and the mountain ranges of the Puezspitzen and Geislerspitzen with their striking transitions through steep scree gullies, as well as the two highest peaks – the Furchetta and Sass Rigais. To the north, the Peitlerkofel and the chain of the Villnöß Geisler rise, with the Günther-Messner-Steig clearly visible across them. To the west, the peaks of the Sarntal Alps and the Ortler Group were clearly visible far behind the Eisacktal. To the east, the entire Fanes-Sennes-Prags Group rises – with well-known peaks such as Seekofel, Neunerspitze, Zehnerspitze, Heiligkreuzkofel, Conturines, Lagazuoi, Piz de Lavarella, all the way to the Tofane with the Tofana di Rozes.

After exploring the hut’s surroundings a bit, I checked in and took a room in the dormitory. The hut had organised itself well during the pandemic with a hygiene concept – disinfectants were provided, and a reduced capacity for guests ensured the necessary distance in the dining room – masks were obligatory. Nevertheless, the hut lost none of its hospitality, cosiness, and the warmth of the hut team.

The warm, soft golden light of the setting evening sun contours the sharp edges of the rock bands, ridges, and peaks, making the dolomite glow increasingly, while the snow cover creates additional interesting contrasts. The clouds form dramatic layers in the evening sky, and the sunset delights with an almost clichéd dramatic interplay of colours, light, and shadow. I could barely tear myself away from this spectacle, but I had to be back in time for dinner before the kitchen at the Schlüterhütte closed – otherwise, I would have gone to bed hungry. But ultimately, I needed strength for the second day of the circular hike, which, after a colourful sunrise over Sobutsch and Medalgesalm, led back to Campill.

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