Gathering Storm on Monte Isola

During an excursion to Monte Isola on Lake Iseo, the humid heat of this June afternoon slowly gave way to evening. From the west, darker clouds were already pushing over the sun, promising both the looming threat of a thunderstorm and the welcome refreshment of a rising wind and hopefully a few cooling raindrops.

Walking along the lakeside road from Sensole to Peschiera Maraglio, I passed the last bathers still lingering by the shore or on the few sunbathing spots. Because of the wonderful views, immortalised by artists, the path is also called Strada dei Pittori (Painters’ Road). Just last year, 1.5 million people came here when Christo opened his art installation Floating Piers – walkable floating jetties between the islands, covered with a golden-yellow fabric – for visitors. This year, it’s significantly quieter again on Lake Iseo.

There are also lovely hikes on Monte Isola, as there are all around Lake Iseo, for example, to Corna Trentapassi or Punta Almana. The path up to a church, a good 400 metres in altitude, promises a beautiful panoramic view. From the summit, you can wander back through picturesque villages, meadows, and olive groves to one of the ferries. I can only recommend stopping for dinner at one of the inviting restaurants and taking one of the last ferries.

I, however, hurried home, as the thunderstorm, with strong winds channelled through the mountain-narrowed passage in the north, was soon approaching.