Modern Times in the Port of Genoa

The Port of Genoa remains one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean, stretching for many kilometers along the coastline. Alongside extensive docks and cargo terminals handling goods and containers, the passenger terminal is located in the heart of the city, in the sheltered bay of the historic harbor. This is where numerous Mediterranean ferries and today’s enormous cruise ships arrive. Whenever one of these towering white giants, rising more than ten decks above the water, is docked in the harbor, it dwarfs the colorful, much smaller buildings of Genoa’s historic old town, which begins immediately behind the waterfront.Traveling to Sardinia by ferry from Genoa adds something special to the journey, offering the opportunity to enjoy a miniature cruise along the way. For my family, I chose an overnight ferry departing at around 10 p.m. and arriving in Olbia at approximately 8 a.m. the following morning. This gave us enough time to explore some of Genoa’s attractions, including the historic harbor and the old town, before returning to the terminal to join the queue of waiting cars. Then came the spectacle of boarding the ferry, followed by one of the highlights of the journey: standing on the upper deck as the ship sailed out of the harbor, admiring the illuminated panorama of Genoa and the Ligurian coastline at night. After a peaceful and restful night at sea, arriving in the Gulf of Olbia at sunrise was an enchanting way to begin our journey across the island.

Boarding a ferry with a car is always an experience in itself. Vehicles arriving at the terminal over several hours line up in long queues along the waterfront. Simply finding the right parking area amid the maze of winding access roads and often confusing signs can be an adventure.
Then comes the waiting. Children run around, adults stretch their legs, smoke, or watch the harbor traffic with growing boredom. As soon as the ferry arrives, the atmosphere begins to buzz – and not just because of the powerful marine diesel engines. Passengers gather their belongings and make their way back to their vehicles. Yet it will be another hour or so before the ferry’s enormous belly has finally been emptied.

Then the sea of vehicles suddenly comes to life. One engine after another roars into action, and at the directions of the dockworkers, the long lines of cars begin rolling through the enormous entrance into the ship.Tyres squeal against the wet steel as I am guided up several ramps, spiralling three decks higher into the ferry. The air grows stuffier and hotter, heavy with the smell of diesel.
Finally, we are directed into a parking space so tight that we can barely squeeze out of the doors. We quickly retrieve our overnight bags from the boot and hurry towards the stairwell leading to the cabins. But all of that is soon forgotten. Before long, we are sitting at the bar on the upper deck, enjoying a cold beer in the lingering warmth of the evening air. We watch as the ship slowly glides out of the harbor and the lights along the coast gradually fade into the darkness of the night at sea.

On the return journey to Genoa, the whole experience unfolds in reverse. Once, while waiting to board in Olbia, I forgot to switch off the air conditioning. When it was finally time to move, the battery was flat. Naturally, all the other cars streamed past me, their drivers eager to get aboard as quickly as possible. I began to worry seriously. Would I make it onto the ferry, or would I be stranded in Olbia? Would the port workers have to push or tow my car aboard? And how on earth was I going to explain all this in Italian? After several anxious minutes, another holidaymaker finally stopped, pulled up in front of my car, and offered to help with a set of jumper cables.
With the engine running again, I drove a few laps around the terminal, hoping the battery would recharge enough to start the car when we reached Genoa. Just to be safe, my rescuer parked next to me on the ferry. And, of course, I treated him to a few beers as a thank-you.