The Amalfi Coast

Positano on the Amalfi Coast, Campania, Italy

The Amalfi Coast south of Naples begins at the Sorrento Peninsula and stretches as far as Salerno; it’s considered the epitome of a Mediterranean coastal landscape with deep blue sea, mountains and cliffs rising dramatically from the water, and little beaches or swimming spots tucked in between; villages clinging daringly to the steep slopes, vineyards, olive groves, lemon gardens, the scent of the macchia, Italian cuisine and so on.

The towns along the so-called Amalfitana have a significant history, dating back to when Amalfi became large and wealthy as a maritime republic in the Middle Ages, which is evident in numerous imposing buildings like the cathedral in Amalfi. Protected by the mountains, they were only accessible from the sea, through which extensive trade relations existed. It wasn’t until the mid-19th century that the towns were connected by that road built boldly into the coast and subsequently discovered by romantic travellers, followed by artists, the international jet set and mass tourism. Nevertheless, places with such evocative names as Amalfi (see image below), Ravello, Positano (see image above), Cetara or Furore still create a longing for the Mediterranean climate and atmosphere.

Amalfi on the eponymous Amalfi Coast, Campania, ItalyAs a driver, you always have to concentrate on the heavy traffic and the many narrow points, because the narrow road wasn’t designed for the many buses or motorhomes. Therefore, a tour early in the morning before 9 am or in the late afternoon is recommended; the most intense way to experience it anyway is hiking on the numerous farm tracks and stairways along the towns of the Amalfitana and up to the summit chain – or alternatively, a boat trip.

In the end, I wish for more respect from both tourists and locals for the still magnificent natural landscape and more appreciation for the foundation of their prosperity – tourism, which is being recklessly destroyed; for example, large amounts of rubbish are regularly found below the boundary walls at the numerous viewpoints, having been carelessly dumped down there.

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