From the ruins of a former Roman villa in the wide Bay of Portoferraio, I gaze at the Monte Capanne mountain range, Elba’s highest peak and an excellent hiking area, bathed in golden evening light. The transmission masts can be seen on the summit, while the striking Monte Giove rises to the right.
I enjoyed one of the most beautiful views of Portoferraio’s old town with its harbour, fortresses or the Napoleonic Villa dei Mulini from the “Le Grotte” hill with the ruins of the ancient “Villa Romana”. The open space allows for a panoramic view across the plains of the bay and the mountains in the east of Elba or towards Procchio and Monte Capanne, and it’s well worth a visit, not just in the late afternoon. Between me and the town, numerous ferries commute to the mainland and many sailors arrive before sunset to find a sheltered mooring in the bay or to enjoy the dreamlike atmosphere of the old Darsena harbour.
Rising from the fertile plain south of Portoferraio on Elba is a hill where a Roman villa was built in the 1st century BC – the largest on the Tuscan islands. The remains of the extensive, excavated and partly very artfully constructed walls and a bathing complex reveal the former luxury of the site; the magnificent panoramic views of Portoferraio, San Giovanni and the north-western Elba panorama with Castello del Volterraio greatly enhance the appeal of this exposed location.
From the ruins of Castello del Volterraio above the Bay of Portoferraio, the view sweeps from the north-east of Elba far into the west to the Monte Capanne massif. The short but steep climb from the winding road between Magazzini and Rio nell’Elba, just before it narrows at the top of the pass and leads through a rock in a single lane, is especially worth it in the early morning or late afternoon when the low sun bathes the island in fascinating colours – or as a romantic spot for a sunset picnic.
During his exile on Elba from May 1814 to February 1815, Napoleon also resided at the city residence Villa dei Mulini in Portoferraio. This villa is located in the upper town above the Darsena harbour, nestled between the two fortresses Forte Falcone and Forte Stella. Today, the villa houses the impressive Napoleon Museum. Read more
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