Tag Archive for: Long-haul travel

Lake Matheson ‘mirror lake’, Westland National Park

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Lake Matheson with the reflection of Mt Cook

Yes, there really are those days when you get that reflection of New Zealand’s highest mountains at Lake Matheson. However, seeing Mt Cook and Mt Tasman without a ripple of wind on the lake or clouds around the peaks is rare, so you need to bring time and patience or just be lucky, as the area is one of the rainiest in the world. The Westland National Park, with the Fox and Franz Josef glaciers on the West Coast of the South Island, is one of the most remote regions in New Zealand. I spent the evening by the campfire at Gillespies Beach, a wonderful beach with plenty of driftwood and, with any luck, seals, and the next morning by contrast with a hike through dense rainforest to the Fox Glacier.

Full moon over the Kaikoura Peninsula

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Full moon over the Kaikoura Peninsula

Kaikoura is well-known as a spot for whale watching or swimming with dolphins, as a cold current from the south mixes with the warmer waters of the Pacific here, creating an excellent food source for these mammals. The tip of the Kaikoura Peninsula is home to a seal colony and many birds. Right behind the coast, the Seaward Kaikoura Range rises up with peaks reaching 2600m. Sir Edmund Hillary once prepared for his Everest ascent here. Much easier, however, is the hike to the cosy Mt Fyffe Hut, where I enjoyed this great view, a hot tea by the wood burner, and good company and conversation late into the night.

The Remarkables mountain range, Otago

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View of the Remarkables from Coronet Peak, South Island New Zealand

From the road to Coronet Peak, which is home to one of New Zealand’s most famous ski resorts, the view opens up across to the Remarkables, whose striking silhouette leaves a lasting impression on every visitor to Queenstown. They flank the deep blue Lake Wakatipu and are bordered to the north by the ruggedly beautiful Kawarau Gorge. In recent years, this region has become increasingly well-known for the excellent produce of its wineries.

Lake Wanaka, Rocky Mountain and the Matukituki Valley

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Rocky Mountain at Lake Wanaka, South Island New Zealand

On the road from Wanaka, west of Lake Wanaka towards the Matukituki Valley, I pass a spot where the glaciers weren’t able to erode the rock: the so-called ‘Rocky Mountain’. A short hike to the relatively low summit opens up fascinating panoramic views of the lake and the mountain range behind it, including ‘Treble Cone’, home to one of New Zealand’s most famous ski resorts.

Mt. Angelus, Angelus Hut and Robert’s Ridge

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The early start from the hut in the dark, the icy air, the crunch of frozen snow under crampons, and the mystical twilight make the pre-sunrise ascent to Mt. Angelus in Nelson Lakes National Park an exhilarating experience. I was also rewarded with panoramic views over Angelus Hut and the lakes, Kahurangi National Park, and Nelson Bay on the horizon. Weather permitting, you absolutely shouldn’t miss the scenic route over Robert’s Ridge on your way back to Lake Rotoaira and St. Arnaud – it’s an absolute highlight.

Taranaki greets Tongariro

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Mt. Taranaki, seen from Tongariro National Park

After a rainy day in Tongariro National Park, the cloud cover broke just before sunset, offering this view from the Mangatepopo Hut of the brother volcano Taranaki in the west of the North Island. As we were on the high plateau in the centre of the North Island, the view extended to the 100 km distant brother volcanoes of Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongariro. Naturally, none of the over 50 hikers, who were numerous at the Mangatepopo Hut and campsites this Easter weekend, missed this magnificent greeting. The hut is located at the start of the Tongariro Crossing, the spectacular hike through the volcanic landscape of Tongariro National Park, and is also the best starting point for ascending the summit of Ngauruhoe.

Aoraki (Mt Cook), Cook Range and Burnett Mountains

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Aoraki (Mt Cook), Southern Alps New Zealand

From the Mueller Hut in Mt Cook National Park, you get this view across the mountain ranges flanking the Tasman Glacier, crowned by Aoraki (Mt Cook), New Zealand’s highest mountain (3,751m). As the westerly drift hits the main divide of the South Island head-on with clouds and rain, you can experience extreme weather changes here in a very short time.