Hunting in the Fiordland Rainforests

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Hunters in Fiordland, New Zealand

For one day, Guy took me red deer hunting deep in the rainforest of a remote valley in Fiordland, New Zealand. First, we travelled by boat for half an hour to the end of a side arm of Lake Te Anau, then spent hours pushing through the almost impenetrable thicket. Hunting is very popular in New Zealand because the forests are rich in game populations that threaten and displace the native flora and fauna. Therefore, hunting here also has an aspect of nature conservation. Unfortunately, we weren’t successful; we were about 10 metres from the deer, we could hear its breath, but since we couldn’t see it through the dense bushes, we weren’t allowed to shoot. At least we managed to catch some fish on the way back on the lake, so dinner was saved.

Milford Sound, Fjordland

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Milford Sound, Fjordland New Zealand

Steep granite walls rise high into the sky. The valley walls, left behind by once mighty, grinding glaciers, are now clothed in lush rainforest. This region experiences some of the country’s most adverse weather; it usually pours down, with waterfalls cascading down the bare rocks. As soon as the sun shines, which is a rare occurrence, millions of sandflies hunt for tourists, for whom Milford Sound is still a ‘must-see’ on their journey. For hikers on the Milford Track, this place marks the end of their dreamlike path through the wilderness of Fiordland National Park.

McKinnon Pass, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park

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McKinnon Pass, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand

A highlight of the trek on the Milford Track is the pass crossing from Clinton Canyon into the Arthur Valley below Mount Balloon. From there, you get impressive views of the glacier-carved U-shaped valleys and the rugged granite peaks here in Fiordland. A short and worthwhile scramble over scree and boulders leads to Mount Hart, provided the weather is stable and good.

Clinton Canyon, Milford Track, Fiordland

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Clinton Canyon, Milford Track, Fiordland New Zealand

When the hiking season on the Milford Track—where access is limited by the Department of Conservation—officially comes to an end in autumn, around May, hikers can freely experience the solitude and fairytale beauty of wild Fiordland. However, caution is advised at this time of year: rapid weather changes with snowfall or heavy rain, which in turn can trigger rockslides or cause streams and rivers to rise and turn into raging torrents, can quickly make the paths impassable.

Lake Te Anau from Mt. Luxmore

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Lake Te Anau from Luxmore Hut, Kepler Track

Even though it’s a very damp area with plenty of rainy days, the sun still makes an appearance often enough, and it’s partly because of these contrasts that Fiordland is a paradise for hiking. Routeburn, Hollyford, Dusky Sound, the world-famous Milford or the Kepler Track are just a selection of the better-known multi-day hikes, some of which are classified as Great Walks. The image above was taken below Luxmore Hut after the first day’s stage of the Kepler Track. Wild Fiordland is an extreme region; steep and inaccessible mountain ranges, glacial troughs, everything overgrown with damp rainforests where you should be well-prepared before heading out into the bush. There are also several areas here where access is prohibited, as the Department of Conservation tries to enable rare birds like the Kakapo or Takahe to breed and save them from extinction.

Lake Manapouri, Fiordland New Zealand

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Lake Manapouri and Mt. Titaroa, Fiordland New Zealand

In Manapouri, I hired a rowing boat to cross the fifty-metre-wide river and reach this hidden viewpoint overlooking the lake and Mt. Titaroa via the Circuit Track, through almost untouched bush and excellent birdlife. The romantic Lake Manapouri lies at the entrance to the wild and unspoilt Fiordland, and is also crossed by boat at the start of the Doubtful Sound tour. The lake’s water also feeds a unique underground power station before flowing into Doubtful Sound via an artificial tunnel.