Panoramic view in the Ampezzo Dolomites

Hiker on a panoramic summit at the Passo di Giau in the warm backlight of the sunset over the summit of the Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy

Cortina d’Ampezzo is framed by several prominent mountain groups, e.g. Cristallo, Sorapis, Tofane, Antelao, Nuvolau or Croda da Lago. They are also called the Ampezzo Dolomites. Many winding pass roads with magnificent views of the alpine landscape lead into the Cortina basin in the Boite valley, which flows south into the Piave.

A man standing on a panoramic summit at the Passo di Giau in the warm backlight in front of mountain ranges and the Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy

From the west, these are the Falzarego Pass and the Giau Pass. At Falzarego, the road crosses directly below the peaks of the Tofane and Lagazuoi, as well as the gently rising slopes of the Averau. The Passo di Giau is overlooked by the lower rock faces of Ra Gusela, Averau and Nuvolau. On the southern side of the Passo di Giau, just a few minutes’ walk up the slope, lies a free-standing, grassy ridge with a magnificent Dolomite panorama.

Dusk over the autumnal landscape with valleys and mountain ranges of the Pala group and Ampezzo Dolomites, Passo di Giau, Dolomites, Italy

After the impressive experiences of the previous day, with the hike through the colourful autumn larch and mountain pine forests below Averau and Nuvolau, I drove over to the Passo di Giau after descending from the summit of Lagazuoi. The winding, narrow road branches off to the south above Cortina, leading first through magnificent mountain forests, then above the tree line up into grassy slopes, overlooked by the rock towers and bands of the surrounding mountain massifs of the Dolomites. The landscape widens and offers views of more distant mountain groups such as Sella, Marmolada, Puez-Geisler, Prags Dolomites or Pala.

Dusk at the Giau Pass summit in the Dolomites with the glowing rock faces of Ra Gusela, Nuvolau, Averau, Tofane, Croda Rossa, Province of Belluno, Italy

At the pass summit itself, there is still plenty of traffic: the challenging incline of the route is a classic for endurance cyclists. Motorcyclists loudly enjoy the winding road layout, as do sports car drivers. The slow-moving motorhomes are seen as a challenging overtaking manoeuvre. The sun terrace of the cafe is therefore well filled in this dream weather, as are the hiking car parks along the road. Gradually, the spots on the ridge also fill up with more photographers. Tripods are extended and together we experienced an impressive play of colours in the transition from the evening sun to the twilight after sunset. Today, that took place right by the Marmolada.

Light trails from car headlights on the winding road through the autumnal mountain meadows at the Passo di Giau at twilight, Dolomites, Italy

Soon the car park emptied and only a few campers remained and, above all – silence. If it hadn’t been for a reckless neighbour who parked his camper van right next to me later in the night without any space and left the hissing, roaring auxiliary heater running all night. The night was – as expected – frosty, with an impressively clear starry sky and again very short, as the alarm clock rang early again before dawn. But 2 hours later than the day before, as this morning it was only a few minutes to the viewpoint at the pass.

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