Dodona in North Epirus, not far from Ioannina, is one of the most interesting places in Greece., as it housed the oldest oracle in Greece and one of the largest amphitheatres, which is in no way inferior to the famous one in Epidaurus. Around 200 BC, an earth goddess was first worshipped here, before priests later divined from the rustling of an oak tree. The theatre dates from the 3rd century BC, held up to 18,000 people, and is still used for events in summer. The complex opens onto a very fertile valley between the limestone mountain range of Agios Nikolaos-Manoliasas and the Tomaros Mountains, inviting visitors for full-day hikes. That year, it had snowed late, so in early May, the higher altitudes and peaks were still impassable. All the more charming I found the paths through the valleys, where nature literally exploded during the first warm days, revealing a riot of blossoms. I followed the road to a small, unspoilt mountain village and rested in a kafeneion, where my coffee was still prepared by hand in a small pot over the hearth fire.