Tag Archive for: Engadin

On the Summit Ridge of Piz Palü

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Mountaineers on the summit ridge of Piz Palü, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

During the steep ascent over the Pers Glacier and the icefalls, I could really feel the altitude in my legs and the thinner air here above 3500 m. After a short rest on the saddle (in the bottom left of the image), the final part of the ascent followed, along the narrow ridge to the South Summit of Piz Palü. The first section was steep and icy, before it gently levels out towards the summit. Incidentally, the border between Switzerland and Italy also runs along the ridge. At the summit, we finally reached the highlight of our Piz Palü tour, although the storm clouds forced us into a rapid descent back to the Diavolezza Hut.

The hospitality of the Diavolezza Hut

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On the viewing terrace of the Diavolezza hut, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

On the wide sun terrace of the Diavolezza Hut, with the dreamy panorama of Piz Palü, Piz Bernina and the Morteratsch Glacier, we recover wonderfully from our tour up Piz Palü and can look back on the progress and experiences of the trip in a relaxed way. This place, where day-trippers meet climbing freaks, marks a boundary between the civilised and unpredictable worlds, between perceived safety and looming danger.

Through the Icefalls on Piz Palü

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Mountaineers in the serac zone of the Pers Glacier during the ascent of Piz Palü, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

In the first steep section of the Pers Glacier icefalls on the ascent of Piz Palü, we followed the tracks of preceding groups who were also looking for an easy route through the maze of crevasses and ice walls. Nevertheless, we occasionally had to use crampons and light ice axe work, which is no problem for an experienced mountaineer. However, the view into the depths of the crevasses demands considerable respect for the glacier. During this section, one should under no circumstances allow the impressive panoramic view over the Morteratsch Glacier to break one’s concentration.

On the glacier to Piz Palü

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Panorama of Piz Bernina, Morteratsch Glacier and Diavolezza hut, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

After leaving the Diavolezza hut before sunrise for our tour to Piz Palü, the path first led over rock and finally onto the Pers Glacier. There, we crossed the bare ice, which was criss-crossed by many crevasses, before the steep ascent to the saddle and the summit ridge begins at the first icefalls. We quickly gained altitude and could enjoy the panorama down towards Pontresina. Meanwhile, the Diavolezza hut almost sank into the billowing clouds (on the right in the picture), which heralded the rising danger of thunderstorms and urged us to hurry.

The Bernina and the Biancograt

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Sunrise on Piz Bernina, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

The Bernina (4,049 m), seen here from the Diavolezza hut during my tour up Piz Palü, is an enticing and challenging goal for many mountaineers. The Biancograt in particular, a long, snow-covered ridge curving towards the summit (clearly visible in profile here on the right), is considered the most beautiful part of the ascent.

The Bernina Range in the first light of day

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Panorama of Piz Palü and the Bernina in the first sunlight from the Diavolezza hut, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

The three-peaked Palü (3,905 m, left), Bellavista (centre) and the Bernina (4,049 m, right) tower majestically over the icefalls of the Pers and upper Morteratsch glaciers. The Diavolezza hut is famous for this unique view. The Diavolezza hut is famous for this unique view. Across the glacier, the icefalls and the summit ridge on the left edge of the picture, my mountain tour up Piz Palü leads to the saddle to the left of the summit ridge and from there to the south summit (the one on the left).

Sunrise at Diavolezza Hut

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Sunrise at the Diavolezza hut, Bernina Massif, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

From as early as three in the morning, there’s already a lot of hustle and bustle at the Diavolezza hut, as groups prepare for the tour up Piz Palü, the crossing via the Bellavista Terrace to the Bernina, or other highlights in the area. In the twilight, you can see the chains of lights from mountaineers heading into the icefall or up the Pers Glacier. To the east this morning, there’s the magnificent spectacle of the sunrise, though its colours don’t promise good weather. Too much moisture in the warm air will lead to thunderstorms, which later forced us into a rapid descent from the summit of the Palü.