Tag Archive for: Crampon Tour

On the Summit Ridge of Piz Palü

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Mountaineers on the summit ridge of Piz Palü, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

During the steep ascent over the Pers Glacier and the icefalls, I could really feel the altitude in my legs and the thinner air here above 3500 m. After a short rest on the saddle (in the bottom left of the image), the final part of the ascent followed, along the narrow ridge to the South Summit of Piz Palü. The first section was steep and icy, before it gently levels out towards the summit. Incidentally, the border between Switzerland and Italy also runs along the ridge. At the summit, we finally reached the highlight of our Piz Palü tour, although the storm clouds forced us into a rapid descent back to the Diavolezza Hut.

The hospitality of the Diavolezza Hut

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On the viewing terrace of the Diavolezza hut, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

On the wide sun terrace of the Diavolezza Hut, with the dreamy panorama of Piz Palü, Piz Bernina and the Morteratsch Glacier, we recover wonderfully from our tour up Piz Palü and can look back on the progress and experiences of the trip in a relaxed way. This place, where day-trippers meet climbing freaks, marks a boundary between the civilised and unpredictable worlds, between perceived safety and looming danger.

Through the Icefalls on Piz Palü

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Mountaineers in the serac zone of the Pers Glacier during the ascent of Piz Palü, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

In the first steep section of the Pers Glacier icefalls on the ascent of Piz Palü, we followed the tracks of preceding groups who were also looking for an easy route through the maze of crevasses and ice walls. Nevertheless, we occasionally had to use crampons and light ice axe work, which is no problem for an experienced mountaineer. However, the view into the depths of the crevasses demands considerable respect for the glacier. During this section, one should under no circumstances allow the impressive panoramic view over the Morteratsch Glacier to break one’s concentration.

On the glacier to Piz Palü

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Panorama of Piz Bernina, Morteratsch Glacier and Diavolezza hut, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

After leaving the Diavolezza hut before sunrise for our tour to Piz Palü, the path first led over rock and finally onto the Pers Glacier. There, we crossed the bare ice, which was criss-crossed by many crevasses, before the steep ascent to the saddle and the summit ridge begins at the first icefalls. We quickly gained altitude and could enjoy the panorama down towards Pontresina. Meanwhile, the Diavolezza hut almost sank into the billowing clouds (on the right in the picture), which heralded the rising danger of thunderstorms and urged us to hurry.

The Bernina Range in the first light of day

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Panorama of Piz Palü and the Bernina in the first sunlight from the Diavolezza hut, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

The three-peaked Palü (3,905 m, left), Bellavista (centre) and the Bernina (4,049 m, right) tower majestically over the icefalls of the Pers and upper Morteratsch glaciers. The Diavolezza hut is famous for this unique view. The Diavolezza hut is famous for this unique view. Across the glacier, the icefalls and the summit ridge on the left edge of the picture, my mountain tour up Piz Palü leads to the saddle to the left of the summit ridge and from there to the south summit (the one on the left).

In the Ballroom of the Alps: From Diavolezza to Piz Palü

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Panorama of Piz Palü, Bellavista and Piz Bernina from the Diavolezza Hut, Engadin, Graubünden, Switzerland

The peaks around the Bernina, which rise just short of the 4,000m mark, are considered the crowning glory of the Engadin, whose beauty is widely praised. St. Moritz, the Silvaplana lakes, the Maloja Pass and the National Park are just a few more of the region’s attractions. See the panorama from the Diavolezza Hut at sunrise, Palü and Bernina in the first light of day, impressions of the tour on the glacier, in the icefalls, on the summit ridge and looking back from the sun terrace at Diavolezza.

Maps: Swiss National Map, 1:25,000, Sheet 1277, Federal Office of Topography.
Literature: SAC Swiss Alpine Guide, Swiss Alpine Club.

Descent from the Hausstock

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Mountaineers descending from the Hausstock via the glacier, Glarus, SwitzerlandAfter a short rest on the summit of the Hausstock with its magnificent panoramic views, we descend eastwards directly over the very steep upper section of the ‘Gletscher da Mer’. At first, we can still cushion our steps well in the slushy snow, before we soon have to navigate extremely carefully around flatter areas due to the crevasses. This section across the glacier demands full use of their gear from the “tough guys” once again. We finally continue our descent over the debris mounds of the former medial moraine to the Panix Pass and back into the green summer meadows of the Vorderrhein Valley, where we finish our mountain tour to the Hausstock.