Sunrise on Ngauruhoe Summit

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Chapter 1: From the Darkness of Time into the Light of Now

Full moon over Mangatepopo Hut at Ngauruhoe, Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

At three in the morning, the alarm clock brings the short night to an end. Bright moonlight streams through the window of my quarters in the Mangatepopo mountain hut, yet outside, the dark rock masses of the Tongariro massif seem to absorb the gentle light. Joyful excitement immediately pulses through my still sleepy limbs, as conditions appear optimal to begin my long-awaited endeavour: the nocturnal ascent of the 2291m high Ngauruhoe volcano, to experience the sunrise over Tongariro National Park and New Zealand’s North Island from its summit.

The hikers in the hut are all still asleep, so in the peaceful silence of the icy autumn morning, all life seems frozen. But this superficial observation is deceptive, for the ground I stand on is extremely active. 150 km deep within the Earth, where the Indo-Australian plate slides beneath the Pacific plate, lies the origin of those eruptive forces that, with fiery power and destructiveness, continuously shape the landscape in the centre of New Zealand’s North Island. Read more

Maori and Their Myths

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Chapter 3: A Story Full of Love and Passion

Snow-covered Ngauruhoe seen from near the Old Waihohonu Hut, Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

Volcanoes and their fiery forces have always been regarded with respect and fear by many peoples. They are part of a living universe, whose incomprehensible, superhuman powers were sought to be appeased with offerings, or a tapu, a prohibition, demanded appropriate respect. Thus, for a long time, people travelled in awe along the mountains, without ever casting a glance at the sacred peaks. There, the supernatural rulers – Te Roro, Taka and Taunapiki – reign; a disregard for their tapu brought with it the danger of death or a terrible curse. Read more

Snow dance on the volcano

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Chapter 6: Winter sports and winter experiences in the park

Snowboarders in the Whakapapa ski area, Ruapehu, Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

It’s hip. It’s cool. And it’s incredibly good fun. Snowboarding! That’s why whole crowds of young New Zealanders are putting their surfboards in the garage and switching to the snow. Because in winter, dreams come true—at least for winter sports enthusiasts. Where else can you experience white powder snow dreams on an active volcano? Three ski areas are located on the slopes of Ruapehu. Tukino, the smallest of the three in the east; Turoa in the south, which has the driest powder snow and the coldest temperatures; and finally Whakapapa, New Zealand’s largest ski area. Whichever area you choose, you’ll find long runs, up to four metres of snow, a magnificent backdrop and enough cliffs to get plenty of air under your board… Read more

Hut Wardens on their day off

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Two New Zealanders

Over Easter, I was busy working as a hut warden in Tongariro National Park along with many other colleagues. You can take on jobs like these even without a work permit, as you only get a subsistence allowance for it – the dreamlike time in one of New Zealand’s most beautiful places is free (as are the warden rooms in the mountain huts, which are often comfortably furnished with gas cookers, heating, sinks, etc.).

Megan and Heidi, two New Zealanders, both worked there for a summer season as Hut Wardens. Our tasks included maintaining paths, bridges, and hut facilities, checking tickets and overnight fees, and providing hikers with information about the park and, above all, the weather. After five days in the wilderness, we always enjoyed the comforts of a house available in Turangi for our days off, for things like a shower and personal grooming. We quickly got rid of the money we’d saved in the park due to the lack of things to buy: fresh fruit and vegetables, a cold beer in the pub…

Red Crater and Ngauruhoe, Tongariro National Park

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Red Crater, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu, Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

The Red Crater is the highlight of the Tongariro Crossing, the hike through the volcanic massif of Tongariro National Park, which can also be extended into the Northern Circuit. At this point, the paths from Oturere, Ketetahi and Mangatepopo Hut meet. The vibrant green Emerald Lakes contrast with the sulphurous yellow, red, and black ashes of the Tongariro Red Crater, Ngauruhoe, and Ruapehu volcanoes in the background.

Taranaki greets Tongariro

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Mt. Taranaki, seen from Tongariro National Park

After a rainy day in Tongariro National Park, the cloud cover broke just before sunset, offering this view from the Mangatepopo Hut of the brother volcano Taranaki in the west of the North Island. As we were on the high plateau in the centre of the North Island, the view extended to the 100 km distant brother volcanoes of Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe, and Tongariro. Naturally, none of the over 50 hikers, who were numerous at the Mangatepopo Hut and campsites this Easter weekend, missed this magnificent greeting. The hut is located at the start of the Tongariro Crossing, the spectacular hike through the volcanic landscape of Tongariro National Park, and is also the best starting point for ascending the summit of Ngauruhoe.

On the summit of Ruapehu

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Mt. Ruapehu Crater, Tongariro National Park, New Zealand

At 2,797 m, the active volcano Ruapehu is the highest mountain on New Zealand’s North Island and a prominent highlight of the Tongariro National Park visible from afar. The climb to the summit is a demanding trek from the Turoa ski area over scree, ice, and loose rock, leading to an impressive view across the entire North Island and the apocalyptic crater. Before the 1995/96 eruptions, the crater was filled with a turquoise lake; after the eruption, it became a steaming mud hole. It’s advisable to book a guide, as several climbers die in avalanches or falls every year. The ascent via the Whakapapa ski area to the geological research station is easier.