Tag Archive for: Mountains

The Bernina Range in the first light of day

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Panorama of Piz Palü and the Bernina in the first sunlight from the Diavolezza hut, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

The three-peaked Palü (3,905 m, left), Bellavista (centre) and the Bernina (4,049 m, right) tower majestically over the icefalls of the Pers and upper Morteratsch glaciers. The Diavolezza hut is famous for this unique view. The Diavolezza hut is famous for this unique view. Across the glacier, the icefalls and the summit ridge on the left edge of the picture, my mountain tour up Piz Palü leads to the saddle to the left of the summit ridge and from there to the south summit (the one on the left).

Sunrise at Diavolezza Hut

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Sunrise at the Diavolezza hut, Bernina Massif, Engadin, Grisons, Switzerland

From as early as three in the morning, there’s already a lot of hustle and bustle at the Diavolezza hut, as groups prepare for the tour up Piz Palü, the crossing via the Bellavista Terrace to the Bernina, or other highlights in the area. In the twilight, you can see the chains of lights from mountaineers heading into the icefall or up the Pers Glacier. To the east this morning, there’s the magnificent spectacle of the sunrise, though its colours don’t promise good weather. Too much moisture in the warm air will lead to thunderstorms, which later forced us into a rapid descent from the summit of the Palü.

In the Ballroom of the Alps: From Diavolezza to Piz Palü

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Panorama of Piz Palü, Bellavista and Piz Bernina from the Diavolezza Hut, Engadin, Graubünden, Switzerland

The peaks around the Bernina, which rise just short of the 4,000m mark, are considered the crowning glory of the Engadin, whose beauty is widely praised. St. Moritz, the Silvaplana lakes, the Maloja Pass and the National Park are just a few more of the region’s attractions. See the panorama from the Diavolezza Hut at sunrise, Palü and Bernina in the first light of day, impressions of the tour on the glacier, in the icefalls, on the summit ridge and looking back from the sun terrace at Diavolezza.

Maps: Swiss National Map, 1:25,000, Sheet 1277, Federal Office of Topography.
Literature: SAC Swiss Alpine Guide, Swiss Alpine Club.

Descent from the Hausstock

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Mountaineers descending from the Hausstock via the glacier, Glarus, SwitzerlandAfter a short rest on the summit of the Hausstock with its magnificent panoramic views, we descend eastwards directly over the very steep upper section of the ‘Gletscher da Mer’. At first, we can still cushion our steps well in the slushy snow, before we soon have to navigate extremely carefully around flatter areas due to the crevasses. This section across the glacier demands full use of their gear from the “tough guys” once again. We finally continue our descent over the debris mounds of the former medial moraine to the Panix Pass and back into the green summer meadows of the Vorderrhein Valley, where we finish our mountain tour to the Hausstock.

On the summit of the Hausstock

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View from the summit of the Hausstock towards Ruchi and Tödi, Glarus, SwitzerlandHappy faces at the highlight of the two-day mountain tour, the summit of the Hausstock. In the centre of the image, the section of the path after the ascent from the Muttseehütte from the Ruchi over the ridges and crests, especially the ‘Furggel’, is clearly visible. In the background, the Tödi shines to the west of the Hausstock. After a short break, we’re keen to begin the descent on the southern side across the glacier, as threatening cumulus clouds are gathering and the summit is quickly becoming shrouded in cloud.

Ridge Traverse on the ‘Furggel’ to Hausstock

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The Furggel, the key section (3,000 m) before ascending the Hausstock, Glarus, Switzerland

The ascent from the Muttseehütte to the summit of Hausstock goes through scree via the Hintersulzlücke. We didn’t choose the climbing route along the ridge, but a variation from the southwest onto the Ruchi over rock and snow, where we eventually had to use crampons. After traversing north below the summit, at 3,000 m, comes the key section, the so-called “Furggel”, an exposed narrow ridge. On this section, which is secured with fixed ropes, one has to balance over abysses several hundred metres deep on both sides. A short climb is followed on the other side by a fairly level stretch until the final ascent on the summit ridge, where the highlight of our two-day mountain tour to the Hausstock is finally reached. From the freestanding summit, you can enjoy magnificent views.

Muttsee, Bifertenstock and Tödi

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Muttsee in front of Bifertenstock and Tödi, Glarus, Switzerland

On the second day’s stage of the mountain trek to Haustock, we leave the Muttseehütte early and begin the ascent over scree slopes to Hintersulzlücke (2646 m). From there, the panorama opens up to the southwest, revealing the partially still-frozen Muttsee (in the foreground), the distinctive “hump” of Kistenstöckli near Kistenpass (left), Bifertenstock (centre, 3420 m), Selbsanft (right), and behind them, Tödi (3586 m). To the north, I stand before the abyss into the Durnachtal, where the view opens up to Linthal and Glärnisch. Ahead of us now is the ascent over the Ruchi to the key section, the ridge crossing of the ‘Furggel’.